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| Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes. |
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01-15-2007
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#1 (permalink)
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Member
Super Sidecars
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 61
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Well.....Based on my drive today it looks as if I am going to have to crack the primary chain case and do some clutch work.
Well....any suggestions? It seems as if the clutch isnt disengaging completely when I shift, in addition to that I have to let the clutch about 95% out before the bike starts creeping forward.....
PLEASE HELP! ....I will be doing this friday.
Any suggestions? Any tips or tricks....Can I just adjust the clutch retaining bolt on the pressure plate...or is this way more complicated?
Any help would be great!
Tim
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01-16-2007
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#2 (permalink)
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Moderator
Site Supporter Moto Grand Prix Favorite Bike: Triumph Bonneville
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Laredo, Texas
Posts: 2,596 Other Motorcycle: Britiron
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Start with a BOTTOM to TOP adjustment by the book.
Sometimes that will fix everything.
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01-16-2007
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#3 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Powerbike
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: athens, ga
Posts: 371
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the thing i found with my clutch is that there's about 3 layers which offer results:
1) full clutch adjustment, no covers need to come off
2) messing with the basket cover to straighten it out, primary cover comes off, but not the basket cover
3) opening up the basket, replacing springs, replacing worn cork plates if necessary.
i have so far done 1 and 2. the clutch is okay, but not perfect. i wish i'd just gone straight to #3 and gotten it over with. that's on the schedule for feb/mar, but i could have already done it.
and 1 and 2 offered significant improvements, don't get me wrong. i just hate to do something twice. i also hate to do more work than i have to, so you can see how this is my own personal punishment in hades.
move over, sisyphus. i need to shift from first to second and back again at 2 mph a few times....
__________________
Sic semper tyrannis
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01-16-2007
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#4 (permalink)
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Moderator
Site Supporter Moto Grand Prix Favorite Bike: Triumph Bonneville
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Laredo, Texas
Posts: 2,596 Other Motorcycle: Britiron
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Well, first make sure you are getting the proper range on your ball-ramp inside the tranny cover, then adjust trhe rod and free play. If your cable is in adjustment and you still have insufficient joy, it's time to pull the primary cover again.
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01-16-2007
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Powerbike
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: athens, ga
Posts: 371
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interesting. that ball ramp looks like the previous owners never once put the bike in neutral at a stop. thanks. not to hijack the thread, mind you.
__________________
Sic semper tyrannis
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01-16-2007
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#6 (permalink)
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Member
Super Sidecars
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 61
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Thanks for the advice...I have the Triumph Shop manual and it says tighten the adjuster screw until the pressure plate is just about to lift, however, I see no lift...Should I just assume as soon as I feel the adjuster screw resistance that the pressure plate is starting to lift?
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01-17-2007
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme Favorite Bike: 77 Bonneville
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 599
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Tim,
Make sure your cable is backed right off first, then unlock the lock nut on the adjustment screw on the clutch outer (domed) pressure plate, and screw the screw in until you feel resistance. Then back it off 1/8th of a turn, and lock down the nut. This ensures the clutch operating rod is not in permanent contact with the ball ramp and clutch pressure plate - gets hot and wears quick if this is the case. Then adjust your cable starting at the gearbox end.
__________________
Per Ardua Ad Astra
(Through difficulties to the stars)
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01-17-2007
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#8 (permalink)
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Member
Super Sidecars
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 61
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Thanks!
Melbourne, Australia to Melbourne, Florida.
I haven't adjusted the gearbox side, is that documented in the Triumph Shop Manual?
Steps I have as of now:
1) undo the clutch lever adjustment
2) undo the nut on the pressure plate and turn screw until resistance is felt, then back off 1/8 of a turn, tighten nut back down.
3) Tighten down clutch lever adjustment nut. I think the manual said 1/8 inch play, maybe 1/16. (I am at work I don't have it in front of me).
(where does the gearbox cable adjustment go in these steps?)
Any help would be great.
Tim
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01-17-2007
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#9 (permalink)
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Moderator
Site Supporter Moto Grand Prix Favorite Bike: Triumph Bonneville
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Laredo, Texas
Posts: 2,596 Other Motorcycle: Britiron
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Gearbox level adjustment is the same as lever adjustment.
It's just that you should take most of the slack out at the gearbox to leave room to "play" with fine adjustment at the lever without that adjuster sticking way out.
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01-18-2007
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#10 (permalink)
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Member
Super Sidecars
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 61
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No matter what adjustment I make, I can not get the clutch to fully disengage. It makes some horrible noises when trying to go into first from neutral.
In addition to that, the back wheel spins slowly when in neutral and the clutch is disengaged. (On center stand I can see this).
Are there any tricks to this? I adjusted the pressure plate per the directions, I adjusted the gearbox adjustment (made sure no constant tension on clutch mechanism in gear box, and then I tried adjusting the clutch lever...no luck.
Please HELP!
Tim
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