Triumphrat

01-14-2007, 03:50 AM

I went through top end of 1969 tr6r new pistons .20 over small end bushings valve job. I torqued head bolts to specs but i don"t have a torque wrench that wll work on cylinder base nuts [35 lbs] I tightened them with a long 1/2 inch 12 point wrench too what I think is about 35 lbs but i know it's not exact . Will this be close enough? Does anyone have a better way. Would appreciate ideas as this is new to me..

OzBloke · 01-14-2007, 07:21 AM

Firedog,

Your calibrated elbow is good enough. Don't over-tighten, as the studs are threaded into alloy, not steel.

Once you get it running, check the cyclinder base nuts in case they vibrate loose. I found a few loose ones (the smaller hex ones on my 77) after 500 miles or so, and ended up putting some spring lock washers under them. An oil leak around the cyclinder base gasket can also be a pointer to loose nuts.

good luck with it.

TRI-AL · 01-14-2007, 08:51 AM

No compression there, so not critical other than just being "tight". ! :hammer:

GrandPaulZ · 01-14-2007, 11:53 AM

You should have used Blue Loctite. You can feel them tightening up, get them really snug and stop there.

panda · 01-14-2007, 04:38 PM

In my opinion there aren't that many places on a bike where you can use a torque wrench. Because, often the torque setting is for clean dry threads. I do not like to use dry threads preferring to use graphite grease, this dries to leave residue that helps to prevent the threads from stripping when you undo them. Learn to devlope a feel. Most of the assemblies are for oil tightness. My preferred method is to grease the gasket, as you do up the fasteners you can see when the grease is being squished from the joint. shortly after that you will feel resistance. Usually about one flat more turning is enough.

[ This message was edited by: panda on 2007-01-14 14:44 ]