Triumphrat

twlynch · 01-07-2007, 11:47 PM

I am pretty sure this problem has been addressed, however, I am having no luck finding any data on it.

I am trying to shift to first from neutral and I hear some resistance....noise. It also happens when I come from 2nd to 1st. I don't remember it being this bad a month ago. I put in synthetic gear oil (can of worms...I know) about two weeks ago and I don't know if this exposing a problem that already existed when I purchased the bike or the synthetic oil is not playing nice inside the 4 speed. Any suggestions would be great....

Can this be as easy as a clutch adjustment? It only seems like the problem exists when going to first.

Any help would be great!
Tim Lynch

[ This message was edited by: twlynch on 2007-01-07 21:47 ]

TRI-AL · 01-08-2007, 03:51 AM

Why the synthetic oil? I wouldn't mess with th e stuff in that bike. First start with the RIGHT stuff- Castrol 20W50!
If I recall, correctly, the primary chain case and engine oil are "linked". i.e.- they use the same oil! There should be 3 tiny "overfill - level" holes in the side of the primary case that allows "excess" chain oil "back into" the crankcase. Therefore common oil! Then, yes it could be clutch adjustment, however, as noted on this forum, the slight "grind" into 1st from neutral is quite common, esp. when the bike is COLD! Not sure if it should also happen from 2nd to 1st....that may indicate more towards adjustment! Get That Synthetic Outta There! :hammer:

twlynch · 01-08-2007, 07:40 AM

Just a heads up...

I am running 20W50 in the primary / crank. I am running synthetic in the gear box.

htown16 · 01-09-2007, 10:18 AM

I believe I would go back to dino straight 90w in the gear box. It apparently has the right viscosity to keep the gears from spinning when clutch is disengaged. See this tech article. http://gabma.no-ip.org/docs/grinding.pdf Hope this helps

panda · 01-09-2007, 10:49 AM

I think this may be a little bit of clutch drag. Do you separate the plates before starting?
I think from memory the oil should be straight 50 grade ep dino. but doubt 75-90 would hurt any.

Mecchanica · 01-09-2007, 06:16 PM

Far and away most shifting problems with Triumph 650s are actually clutch problems. The most common are uneven plate lift and plain plates which are too smooth. Sandblast the plain plates with coarse grit and adjust the pressure plate to lift dead even.
Stick with the synth in the gearbox, and get it into the engine at your earliest convenience.

twlynch · 01-09-2007, 09:30 PM

The Holy Mecchanica chimes in!

I don't have a sandblaster - can I use sandpaper to work on the clutch plates? Is this documented in any manual or is this tribal knowledge? I haven't got into the clutch before, but I can read!

Another thing that is killing me....It takes a lot of effort to disengage the clutch. The lever is a bear! This can't be normal....I think if this continues my forearm is going to be the size of a professional bodybuilder!

I LOVE THIS PLACE!

Tim

GrandPaulZ · 01-09-2007, 11:34 PM

Just rub the steel plates on a smooth sidewalk (not the slick kind, but not the "broom finish" kind either). Rub them is circles 'till they are uniformly roughed up and all glazing is gone.

You may need a new clutch cable, and a proper bottom-to-top adjustment by the book.

Adjust the 3 springs on the basket BEFORE you install the primary cover, that way you can nip them up slightly as required for the pressure plate to spin true when you pull in the clutch and kick the starter. If it wobbles, adjust the screws to even it ip.

peintremondain · 01-10-2007, 09:04 AM

to get an even lift of the clutch you can use a dial gauge.it's the more accurate way and the easier too... as long you have a dial gauge.
ben

twlynch · 01-10-2007, 10:12 AM

I keep hearing pull the clutch and kick the starter.....

I have to put the bike in neutral to kick start it. Is that not right? Every bike I have had in the past...I could hold the clutch lever in and crank....not this one!

Tim
72 Bonneville T120R