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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 01-07-2007, 11:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Please Help!

Scenario: Drivin along at 45mph.....go to slow down, so I engage the clutch and break. I have to work at the throttle to keep it running. It seems as if the drastic RPM drop wants to make the bike stall. Is my idle to low? It seems as if it is an idle problem, or the AMALs fuel response is acting weird....

I know Mech will ring in....beacause he is the all knowing when it comes to the hearty triumph!

By the way I just finished painting my tank, air box, and side covers....I have had this bute for about a month and half and I love it. It rides exceptional except the 1 N 2 N 3 N 4 gear box and the stalling when I engage the clutch! If I can figure out how to fix these things...I will be happier than a PIG in SH*T.

Please help...anybody!

Tim Lynch

By the way when I did the tank work...I cleaned out the pitcocks <- spell. So I know I am getting good fuel flow.

Thanks@

[ This message was edited by: twlynch on 2007-01-07 21:13 ]
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Old 01-08-2007, 03:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Tim,
I think your idle might be a little low. Remember that it should be set with the engine warmed up. Take it on a decent run somewhere, stop at a convenient service/gas station, and adjust to the right idle speed. Then see if keeps happening. Does it actually stall in the situation you describe above?

Pete
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Old 01-08-2007, 03:34 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Make sure your cables are synchronized so that both cabureaor slides work in "perfect" unison, then warm up engine as suggested above, pull 1 spark plug wire off a cylinder and adjust the OTHER carb (the one running) with the idle MIXTURE screw till it runs OPTIMALLY (U may have 2 speed up the "idle speed adjuster screw" just to keep it running) Then do the OTHER side the same way. After the MIXTURE is set, adjust the idle SPEED screws to @ 1K rpm. This is all laid out in a Haynes/Clymer manual. Suggest useing one. Also, make sure plugs R good & valves R adjusted properly. Have fun! :hammer:
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Old 01-08-2007, 07:42 AM   #4 (permalink)
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It stalls in the scenario above.....Driving my crazy!

Tim
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Old 01-08-2007, 10:21 AM   #5 (permalink)
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same thing happened to me awhile back, but with one carb. the mix was too lean, if memory serves. an annoying problem that was eventually and easily solved by turning the mix screws beyond the suggested range. i intend to drop my needle next time i have the carb open, but for now, the screws have done the job. my pipes aren't bluing further and the plugs look okay, so i'll leave it like this until i have a reason to crack open the top end later in the winter.

the guy who's going to chime in is m. pientremondain, amalphobe extraordinaire! if i recall his words on the subject, "that's AMAL!! switch to mikuni!!"

mecchanica had a great idea for a fix, but it was way too much work.
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If you drop your needles, you are going to be even LEANER.

Lowering needles = raising set clip = leaner

Raising needles = lowering set clip = richer.
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:31 AM   #7 (permalink)
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buh. right. better now than later. :kck:
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:48 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Does anyone have a diagram of where the mix screw is? I am going to crack the books tonight....

AMAL 930, 72 Bonneville

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Old 01-08-2007, 12:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Mine still does the same thing. When It's warmed up it runs great. Until then I need the choke on a bit to keep it idling at a stop. If I take the choke off I need to play with the throttle to keep it from stalling. Once the bike warms up its fine. I've played with everything. I think it's just the way mine runs.
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Old 01-08-2007, 02:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
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FLOAT LEVEL CAN AFFECT IDLE "DROP OFF".

Sorry, turned "CAPS" off.
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