Triumphrat

10-15-2006

What are the recommendations on restoring the rim, laces, hub on a 74 T150V. I’m contemplating the restoration and really don’t know if I can accurately install and true the laces Is this one of the items during a restoration that is best outsourced to an expert?

Wayne

KADUTZ · 10-15-2006

its like anything. You can do it if you have the patience, time, desire and are willing to learn.
If not send it out and have it built by a pro.

GulfCoastDave · 10-15-2006

I recently re-laced the back wheel of my '78 using a new stainless rim & spokes. It's a question of carefully observing the differences in the layout & spokes as you disassemble. Then it's just a bit tedious putting it back together. As for truing the wheel... with great patience, it can be done in the home workshop but the lack of a truing jig makes it very difficult. I've done them in the past when I had access to a truing jig but this time, I took the laced wheel into a local shop & let a pro take care of it. Letting them sell you a new tire as part of the deal helps make the deal more attractive to the dealer... who may normally push away jobs like that.
Best Regards,
GCoastDave

Mecchanica · 10-15-2006

The bike makes a good truing stand. Swingarm for the rear, and forks for the front. Don't be intimidated.

red59 · 10-15-2006

I made a truing stand out of two by fours and a wire as an incdictor. It is very imortant to put the old wheel with the rim on the jig so measure exactly where you want the rim. Some have offsets from hub center. My first wheel took a long time to do, but it was a long winter and a good challenge. Always have a knowlegeable person examine it when your done.
Projects like wheel lacing make being a club member an asset.

10-15-2006

Thanks for the input. I do have run out gauges and feel I could rig a jig for my wheel. If I do it myself the bigger problem is my memory. I have to send the rims out for chrome, polish the hubs and then once all pieces are back 4 weeks later start reassembley. Lots of digital picks are good but maybe not good enough to distinguish the small differences. I was going to cut the laces off with bolt cutters and then set them in a pattern identical to the original. Are there any measurements I should take?

[ This message was edited by: ironduke on 2006-10-15 18:22 ]

GrandPaulZ · 10-16-2006

It sure helps to have several other similar bikes to check against. I usually send them down the street to the guy that taught me about Triumph engines, as he has a truing jig and can do in a couple of hours what it would take me a couple of days to do.

Mecchanica · 10-16-2006

Digital pics are a great idea. I use my old Mavica for any job where it would be too time consuming to make extensive drawings and notes.
There are only four spoke positions...left inner, right inner, left outer, and right outer. Some wheels use 40 identical spokes, some, like your bike, use 20 identical spokes on the right side (long spokes, small diameter side of the hub) and 10 each left inner and left outer, which differ by only the angle of the bend...more acute bend is the outer, less acute is the inner. Some use a different spoke in each position, or 20 of one type and 20 of another type on the other side.
The rear rim is not symmetrical, there is a left side and a right side. Stamp the inside before sending it off for rechroming, or make sure to check the pattern when you get it back. You do this by dropping, in a row, four identical spokes with nipples on them through the holes and pushing down on the nipples, to set the pattern. You'll see the pattern.
Your wheel uses .300" diameter nipples and 10 guage/9 guage butted spokes. I would remove and save the stock ones, if you think you might like to do a more accurate restoration one day. Personally, I only use Buchanan's stainless spokes and nipples.

10-16-2006

Thank you Mecchanica. That's great advice and information.

I will disassemble the spokes as you suggest. Would you recommend reusing the orginal laces? Or just plan to buy and use Buchanan's stainless spokes and nipples?

I hope all is well with regards to the earth quake.

Wayne

Mecchanica · 10-19-2006

Yeah, all's well here. We got our power back after only about 6.5 hours. The bulk of the damage was on the Big Island, about 150 miles away.
I would use the stainless steel spokes and nipples, but keep the stock ones, somebody might want them someday. When you order, make sure to specify the stock type butted spokes to keep the looks right, otherwise they might send you the straight 9 guage spokes. They look a little too bulky, to me. You can also specify POLISHED spokes and nipples, but that adds to the cost, so figure whether it's worth it to you. You can also polish them yourself, using a grinder with a buffing wheel on it, if you don't have a dedicated buffer. Remind them that the Trident has a 19" rear, although you can also source a WM-3 X 18 rear rim, ala the 650 and 500s, and get a wider tire or a better choice of rubber.