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Terrible Triumph timing tribulations

2K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  Ophthos 
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#1 ·
I have searched the forums and cannot find a specific step by step timing procedure for a Daytona 500. I've a clymer manual but it seems very vague and non-descript. Can anyone provide some suggestions. I've just installed a Boyer and my bike has been converted to a single carb. The engine will fire but it very difficult to kick over and will not run for more than .5 of a second. I've got a Sears advance timing light borrowed from a friend; not sure if it will work on motorcycles? Also, the instructions say that because the light has a metal body, it can only be used on 12volt negative systems; does this mean I can't use it?

Any help is appreciated.
 
#3 ·
Newcomtd,

Was the bike running with points and single carb, and then you installed the Boyer, or di the carb conversion and the Boyer happen at the same time? If the latter, you need to figure out if the carb is causing the bike to stop due to a lack of fuel, or misadjustment of idle mixture or idle speed. I suspect idle speed, so screw the idle speed screw in a turn or so.

With the Boyer, I've found that if you install by the instructions, it's comes up a little too advanced. What I do is:

- Set crank at timing mark - 38 deg BTDC.
- Set boyer pickup plate with slots all the way counterclockwise on the mount bolts.
- set the rotor plate to the hole as per the instructions (see the white dot through the right hole)
- rotate the pickup plate clockwise halfway along the curved slot.

This will give you a good starting position. It may be a little retarded, but will definitely start the engine. You can then set the accurate timing using the timing light.

With your "negative earth only" timing light, you can either do as Bonnevillian suggests and use an external 12V power source, or use the bike battery (if it's in good condition and well charged) BUT DO NOT TOUCH THE BODY OF THE LIGHT ON ANY METAL BIKE PARTS. This will do serious damage to your battery and timing light.

Let us know how you get on.
 
G
#4 ·
Great info but I've one more question: How to I know which mark is 38 degrees BTDC on the flywheel?

Also, my idle screw is already turned all the way in and bike was running with points and the single carb. I installed ONLY the boyer.

Thanks

[ This message was edited by: newcomtd on 2006-08-17 10:18 ]
 
#5 ·
Newcomtd,
Plugs out, ign off.
There's a plug with a hex head about 2" below the rear pushrod tube on the top of the crankcase. Undo it. With a 1/4" drive socket about 9/16 or so, and the blunt end of a drill that fits in the drive hole of the socket, place the socket on the edge of the hole the plug went into, and carefully feed the drill in until you feel the crank counterweight.

On the counterweight, there are two "slots" - one for 38deg BTDC, and one for TDC. If you slowly rotate the crankshaft while carefully holding the drill, you'll feel the slot. Be very careful not to rotate too fast, or you'll snap the drill off = bad = take engine completely apart.

When you find the slot, make sure the pointer in the primary cover aligns with the mark on the alternator rotor.

Pete
 
#6 ·
Here is a dumb question:

If the altinator rotor is attached with a key, why can't you just turn the engine ove slowly until the mark lines up with the pointer? If you are using a boyer it won't matter which cylinder is on compression since both plugs fire at the same time.
 
#7 ·
Believe it or not, it DOES matter which trigger is firing. Static timing in the maner you described can be done, but I go one step easier-

Just drop a screwdriver down the Right plug hole, turn the engine over 'till it tops out and make a mark level with the plug hole opening, then on the next go-round, stop about an 1/8" short of the mark and set your ignition rotor right on the timing marks.

You will then be close enough to start the bike and set the timing with a timing light using the marks on the rotor.
 
G
#9 ·
Ok, I followed the suggestions exactly and with a shot of ether, got the bike to start. However, it the engine immediately revs wildly to the point where I believe it is going to break something so I immediately kill it. I backed out my pilot air screw to no success. Am I correct in assuming that this extremely high idle is a fuel issue and is not related to the recent Boyer install?

Also:

OzBloke you said: "When you find the slot, make sure the pointer in the primary cover aligns with the mark on the alternator rotor."

Why not just turn the engine and watch for the pointer and the mark to line up?

Additionally, you suggested to: "- Set boyer pickup plate with slots all the way counterclockwise on the mount bolts."

Do I use the right-most or left-most mounting bolt holes?
 
#10 ·
For the fast idle: You should have a stop screw for the throttle slide. (It will be the screw pointed up at an angle near the mixture screw) Make sure this is not screwed in too much. In general make sure the throttle slide is not hung up and comes down all the way.

The plate for your boyer will be held on to the case by two bolts. They should be 180 degrees apart. Mine are at 12 and 6 oclock. These pillar bolts also receive the screws that the points plate screw into. Loosen these two and rotate the plate counterclockwise. There will be two holes thru wich you can see the magnets rotate by. Loosen the center bolt and move the magnets until the magnet with the white dot can be seen through the hole. Tighten everything and fire it up and time it with a light.
 
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