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| Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes. |
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08-03-2006
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme Favorite Bike: '64 Norton N15CS
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 945 Other Motorcycle: '79 Triumph T140D Bonnie Extra Motorcycle: '71 Triumph T100R Daytona
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OK, first...the basics:
bike: 1979 Triumph Bonneville Special (T140D)
problem area: forks
desc: My forks stick, and I mean REALLY stick. Grab the front brake and push down, and the front end just stays there. I have to grab the brake and yank the forks back up to the height of their travel.
I'm not the original owner, so I can't say if it's ever been hit or dropped. But it doesn't look like it.
I changed the fork oil (just because it needed it). Then in desperation, I replaced the fork tubes and seals.
Now, with the wheel off and the mudguard detached, I can grab each fork tube and move them up and down, no binding or sticking. When I put the front wheel back on...no go. Stick city.
I put the front wheel on with the fork caps (that clamp the spindle) only finger tight. I rolled the bike around a bit to get it all seated, and before tightening the caps checked again. Still sticking. It's bad...to the point I can't even ride it.
Any ideas?
Could the front wheel spindle be bent? It sure doesn't look like it using my Eye Gauge.
I did NOT replace the dampening units or the springs. Could these play a part?
help me Obi Won Kenobi...
cheers,
paul
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08-03-2006
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#2 (permalink)
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Member
Super Sidecars
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC USA
Posts: 55
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I've got the same bike and had the same problem. Your front springs are shot. I took all the same steps you have, but I also replaced the fork springs. Nothing helped until I put in new coils. Really easy to do and cheap to buy.
I got a set of progressive fork springs for about $45. You can get them lots of places at varying prices.
When I unscrewed the top of my fork tubes to remove the old springs, the old ones didn't even pop the cap off. They were about 3"-4" shorter than my new ones.
Drop in the new springs and you'll be good to go! Putting those caps back on while compressing the new springs is a little tricky, you might ask one of these guys about a good way to get that done.
__________________
Roadworthy at last!
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08-03-2006
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#3 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme Favorite Bike: '64 Norton N15CS
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 945 Other Motorcycle: '79 Triumph T140D Bonnie Extra Motorcycle: '71 Triumph T100R Daytona
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Luke,
Thanks for the reply. New springs are my next step. Glad to hear it solved your problem. Let's hope it solves mine.
cheers,
paul
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08-03-2006
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Supersport 600
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Decatur Illinois
Posts: 176
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You didn't state if the fork tubes were new or not.
Try turning the tubes 45 degrees and try it again.... then 45 more if that doesn't work.
I'm not exactly sure if the forks have bushings or not but most do. If those are worn it can cause stiction.
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08-04-2006
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme Favorite Bike: '74 850 Commando
Join Date: May 2006
Location: London UK
Posts: 407 Other Motorcycle: '79 T140E, '96 Trident
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It is possible that it is just a matter of adjusting the assembly, especially if you have had the forks dismantled.
From a Triumph factory manual;
After replacing the fork legs, mudguard and wheel, it may be found that the fork is incorrectly aligned.
To rectify this, the fork wheel spindle cap nuts must first be screwed up tight on the right-hand leg and the spindle cap on the left leg slackened off. Also loosen the top caps and the pinch bolts in both the bottom and top yokes. The forks should now be pumped up and down several times to line them up and then tightened up from bottom to top, that is, wheel spindle, bottom yoke pinch bolts, top caps and finally, the steering stem pinch bolt in the top yoke.
If, after this treatment, the forks still do not function satifactorily, then either the fork stanchions are bent or one of the yokes is twisted.
The top of the stanchion is tapered into the top yoke, so the stanchions wont push up through the top yoke.
There are no bushes in the alloy fork sliders, they are machined internally over their whole length.
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08-04-2006
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#6 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme Favorite Bike: '64 Norton N15CS
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 945 Other Motorcycle: '79 Triumph T140D Bonnie Extra Motorcycle: '71 Triumph T100R Daytona
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Thanks for the advice. You know, I feel like I've tried every possible combination of tighten this, slacken that and pump the forks. But I'll give it another whirl.
I will prevail! :-D
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08-04-2006
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme Favorite Bike: '64 Norton N15CS
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 945 Other Motorcycle: '79 Triumph T140D Bonnie Extra Motorcycle: '71 Triumph T100R Daytona
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Quote:
On 2006-08-03 21:12, Bonnevillian wrote:
You didn't state if the fork tubes were new or not.
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Ooops! Yes, the fork tubes are new.
cheers,
paul
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08-07-2006
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#8 (permalink)
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Moderator
Site Supporter Moto Grand Prix Favorite Bike: Triumph Bonneville
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Laredo, Texas
Posts: 2,548 Other Motorcycle: Britiron
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Actually, your first post DID state that you replaced tubes (stanchions) and seals.
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08-07-2006
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Supersport 600
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Decatur Illinois
Posts: 176
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GPZ... used parts are rampant in trying to keep things going.....
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09-25-2006
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#10 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme Favorite Bike: '64 Norton N15CS
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 945 Other Motorcycle: '79 Triumph T140D Bonnie Extra Motorcycle: '71 Triumph T100R Daytona
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Daveforty!
That bit of workshop manual genius worked! NO MORE STICKING FORKS!
Many thanks everyone. Now it's on to the brake system.
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