Triumphrat

06-14-2006, 06:41 PM

Posted: 2006-06-11 15:59
Gentlemen: HELP!!! I would like to ride again in my lifetime!

Problem:Starts with choke on and half throttle but stalls after choke is released.After a while will keep running(with choke off) if throttle is at least halfway but stalls when released.Very noticible loss of power when finally moving in first gear but stalls when throttle is released.I have a new battery,new plugs and points are correctly set.I disassembled the carbs to find a hard powdery beige substance caked on in both carb bowls(more in the right carb than the left).Cleaned both carbs,main jet and all fuel lines.Floats look good.Both carbs thoroughly flushed. Is there anything I have overlooked?I am not a great mechanic so any advice(very thoroughly and SIMPLY PUT) would be greatly appreciated(Adjustments to cables,screws etc.) Bike has approximately 16K miles on it.I have had the bike since 1972 and this is the first time I couldn't get her going.Thank you in advance for your kind help.

John

okiecityflash · 06-14-2006, 10:28 PM

Maybe air/ fuel mixture setting. Gas cap vent plugged. Seems like a lean fuel mixture or fuel starvation for some reason, like an air leak in an intake manifold or gasket. If it were me, I'd first pull the fuel line and check for flow, if good, I'd check float height and float needle operation Hope you have a work manual like Haynes. I'd also check and make sure some one didn't plug your mufflers, it happens, especially outside beer joints. The way you explain the symptoms, it doesn't sound electrical. But only time will tell. There are some real good Triumph mechanics on this web on a daily basis, so I know someone will be able to help if it's not one of the above problems. Throw away existing gas and refill, might be poisoned.

[ This message was edited by: okiecityflash on 2006-06-14 20:30 ]

KADUTZ · 06-14-2006, 11:28 PM

My bet is idle & "low speed" circuit is plugged. (I assume
idle speed and mixture screws are set correctly).
The way I would approach problem is to pull both carbs bac off and disassemble same.
Get a piece of fine wire , like what is used on a manila shipping tag, and a pair of loooong needle nose pliers.
looking down the top of the carb ,on the intake side floor, you will see two small holes. you need to poke the wire in these holes. the easiest way I found is to take a small piece of the wire in the pliers and poke. Also you need to remove the mixture screw and poke the wire in the mixture screw hole.
now take a can of carb cleaner and spray in the mixture screw hole at the bottom. if things are open there will be a spray out the top of the carb. Next go and spray thru the holes on the carb floor this will help to bac flush the carbs.
(I also spray every hole there is and blow dry with compressed air )
reassemble carbs and reinstall and adjust.
At least thats how I'd approach the problem

06-15-2006, 06:09 AM

Thank you all for your prompt replies!I'll get started again on the problem this weekend. Also,which shop manual would you recommend for my 1971 Bonneville T120(oil in frame)(Haynes,Clymer,---)? I only have the original owners manual.Thanks again,

John

johnnypence · 06-15-2006, 06:34 AM

i've found that the hayne's is lacking in some details and illustrations i would have liked to see. haven't seen clymer for the trumpet, but i had one for my old honda cadaver, and it was great.

i hear the original triumph shop manual is the best, but again, have never seen one and they're pretty expensive.

okie, i like the way you think: not just mechanical issues, but who you might have p**sed off. all these things are important.
:razz:

KADUTZ · 06-15-2006, 06:50 AM

Whichever one you get also get a parts book gives you relationship of part 1 to part 2. That way you will know what will fall off when you take off part 1. Kinda like when you try to take apart a watch SPRONG!

Okie
Another good joke is take a small piece of tissue paper and put under a spark plug cap. A bear of a miss to trace for most people

okiecityflash · 06-15-2006, 09:24 AM

Illdrak, a parts book is indispensable. When I have forgotten how something goes back together, I get the parts book and the illustration guides me on. A must. I think I paid too much for my shop manual and parts book. There was a thread a few days ago where some one had an address for a S.M. for 15 bucks. I gave around forty. Might be too good to be accurate.

[ This message was edited by: okiecityflash on 2006-06-15 08:20 ]