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| Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes. |
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05-01-2006
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#1 (permalink)
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Member
Super Sidecars
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 75
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I have just cleaned my garage and I need advice on EVERYTHING related to getting an old 1977 Bonneville back on the road.
Visit my project blog to see the problems. I haven't added commenting to it yet, so please respond here for now.
Thanks!
Or email me at
TriumphGeezer@mac.com
Bonneville Project Blog
[ This message was edited by: triumphgeezer on 2006-05-08 05:31 ]
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should be a convenience store, not a government agency.
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05-01-2006
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#2 (permalink)
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Member
Super Sidecars
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Hempstead NY
Posts: 55
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So, you've already done everything in the service manual?
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05-01-2006
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#3 (permalink)
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Moderator
Site Supporter Moto Grand Prix Favorite Bike: Triumph Bonneville
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Laredo, Texas
Posts: 2,589 Other Motorcycle: Britiron
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I'd sure like to swap you a modern electronic ignition for that old magneto...
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05-01-2006
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#4 (permalink)
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Member
Super Sidecars
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 75
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Quote:
On 2006-05-01 06:25, panic wrote:
So, you've already done everything in the service manual?
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I have done nothing except excavate.
I once had a Haynes manual or was it a Clymers? Should I try to find a factory manual on the Web?
I really need advice on where to start. I am not averse to spending money for those things I am not qualified to do.
Even advice on simple things like disassembly of this rusted relic would be helpful.
I just hope that I get to the point of needing your Amal performance tuning manual!
__________________
Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms -
should be a convenience store, not a government agency.
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05-01-2006
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#5 (permalink)
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Member
Super Sidecars
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 75
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Quote:
On 2006-05-01 06:48, GrandPaulZ wrote:
I'd sure like to swap you a modern electronic ignition for that old magneto...
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That baby is non-negotiable!
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Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms -
should be a convenience store, not a government agency.
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05-01-2006
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#6 (permalink)
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Senior Member
250 Grand Prix
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 112 Other Motorcycle: KZ1000, CL450, TC100
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Can we get some more details, mileage, how long has it sat? WIll the motor turn over with the kick start. You might want to put some Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders just be sure they are not stuck. Put a battery on it and see how the electrics are. If the pistons are free and you are getting juice then take the plug wires off and see if you are getting spark. Clean the tank and petcocks good and install an inline fuel filter until you are sure that the tank is clean. If you are getting fuel to the carbs then try to fire it up and see what happens.
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05-01-2006
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#7 (permalink)
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Member
Super Sidecars
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 75
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Quote:
On 2006-05-01 10:08, kawtoy wrote:
Can we get some more details, mileage? how long has it sat? WIll the motor turn over with the kick start. You might want to put some Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders just be sure they are not stuck. Put a battery on it and see how the electrics are. If the pistons are free and you are getting juice then take the plug wires off and see if you are getting spark. Clean the tank and petcocks good and install an inline fuel filter until you are sure that the tank is clean. If you are getting fuel to the carbs then try to fire it up and see what happens.
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Mileage 5500 miles
It has sat for 22 years.
The motor is frozen.
No battery. Joe Hunt magneto and battery eliminator.
No tank.
Check the link below for detailed pictures.
Thanks for the Marvel Mystery oil tip. I hope I can free the spark plugs without stripping the threads. I will apply a penetrant there as well.
project blog
[ This message was edited by: triumphgeezer on 2006-05-01 11:07 ]
__________________
Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms -
should be a convenience store, not a government agency.
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05-01-2006
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#8 (permalink)
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Moderator
Site Supporter Moto Grand Prix Favorite Bike: Triumph Bonneville
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Laredo, Texas
Posts: 2,589 Other Motorcycle: Britiron
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This is going to be a LONG project.
The corrosion that is evident means that EVERYTHING with an external surface will need to be stripped and refurbished or replaced. You'll need to split the cases to swap seals and service the sludge trap anyway, so no use skimping.
I can help you with any or all services required at very reasonable rates, all work guaranteed.
Have a look on the Delphi Bonnie forum to see several projects I've done, and a couple that are in-work right now. All of my projects get regular on-line updates with narratives & photos.
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05-01-2006
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme Favorite Bike: 77 Bonneville
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 599
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triumphgeezer,
My advice - find or buy the Haynes or Clymers, and read it end to end, several times. Find youself a decent work area, then strip it down to nuts and bolts, get the frame powder coated, and start rebuilding from scratch. replace every seal, gasket, bearing, and don't skimp on the quality parts.
Mine was in worse condition than yours seems to be. Took me 3 years and about $15K to get it on the road.
You WILL get frustrated along the way, but I'm sure you'll know your ride inside-out when you're finished, and love it even more because you didn't just "repair" it, you re-created it!
Best of luck with the project.
Pete
[ This message was edited by: OzBloke on 2006-05-02 03:30 ]
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Per Ardua Ad Astra
(Through difficulties to the stars)
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05-06-2006
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#10 (permalink)
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Member
Super Sidecars
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 75
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I pulled the plugs. Rusty of course. I have squirted penetrating oil into the cylinders. Next morning, I still can't kick it free. I may as well start tearing it down.
I can't get the carburetor slides out of the tops of the Amals. I wanted to remove the carbs now, but is there a trick to getting the the carbs off the manifolds? Not much room to swing a wrench! Should I just start attacking the top end and remove the head with the carbs attached?
I intend to get the motor out of the frame and up on my work bench. Then I can more easily deal with the chassis. It won't roll due to the disintegrated tires.
I did the get the Haynes manual.
geezer
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