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I took it for a spin around the block, and the crank broke.
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Sounds like a VERY serious problem. I've never seen an old Bonnie with a broken crank; I've seen broken rods and burst crankcases, but never a broken crank. Something had to be quite wrong with this bike before it blew, suprising that it was starting and running right...
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When I got the bike I took it for a test spin around the parking lot and the chain broke!
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I'm going to say that from the description of the rest of the bike, this may not have been the shop's fault, but rather that the chain may not have been a proper one and/or may not have been properly aligned.
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Now I can almost never start it, and if it does the RPMs wont go over say 1200, (it has no tach) before the engine starts cutting out, almost like it is starving for fuel or air or both. It won't even idle most of the time.
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Start at the beginning and look for simple problems. Air, fuel and spark. You'll need a shop manual.
Air filters clean? Valve tappets adjusted properly to allow air and fuel in? Does it have good compression?
Carb jets clean? Did they put the slides in the carbs wrong way around? (Not easy to do but you never know). If it has clear fuel filters, can you see gas going through when you open the taps?
IS THE BATTERY FULLY CHARGED? Symptoms sound typical of low battery. Has the timing been properly set? Check per the book.
Install fresh spark plugs just in case. Install Champion N3C plugs, then IMMEDIATELY do a proper plug check and see if you are too rich or too lean. Put a spark plug wrench in your back pocket and run the bike up to about 3,000 RPM (or as fast as you can get it to go) up through 1st & 2nd gear, then (at the same time) let off the gas and pull in the clutch, and as quick as you can, turn off the key or hit the kill switch. Pull out the spark plugs and read them for running condition RICH (Black) or LEAN (White)
Adjust your carb needles to get a better burn, no parts required, just move the little clip on top of the needles UP if the plugs come out Black, or DOWN if the plugs burn real White.
If you do all of the above and it still doesn't run right, it is POSSIBLE that they could have mis-timed the camshafts. Fixing this is a bit harder than all of the above. Pull off the RIGHT side engine cover (triangle shaped one), and the spark plugs. Kick the engine over slowly 'till you get the little pin-punch and "tick" marks on the gears to line up according to the book; you may need to kick it through many times to get near the alignment. Biggest offender is usually the LEFT (intake) can which can be aligned with the wrong "tick" mark.
Once you get as close as possible WITH THE CRANK SPROCKET MARK AT THE TOP OF IT'S POSITION, remove the center gear till it clears the others, then move the offending gear the slight amount required to align properly. DO NOT TURN THE CAMS MORE THAN ONE OR TWO TEETH IN EITHER DIRECTION. If you can't get them to line up according to the above instructions, you need the help of someone who has done the job before because the fix involves removing the rockerboxes or you can ruin valves.
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The whole front end is off of some jap bike. So it has dual disk brakes. Looks cool but they don't work. I cleaned the calipers out and put in new seals, the pads were new looking. I figured out the master cylinder isn't the correct one for the calipers. I have no idea what to get cause I don't know what the front end is.
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If you have a picture of the bike that you can post a link to, one of us can I.D. it for you. At any rate, just drive by a Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha or Suzuki shop and ask if they have parts for it. If they don't they can PROBABLY tell you who does.
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The wheels are ugly as sin all rusty and stuff so I would like to get new ones
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You may be limited to replacing them with identical or very similar wheels unless you are prepared to have some modification work done including custom spacers, etc.
I hope you get sorted out soon, the weather is getting nice for riding!
[ This message was edited by: GrandPaulZ on 2006-04-25 03:25 ]