Triumphrat

kanoa · 04-18-2006

i am having problems with my clutch, it seems to be slipping quite a bit. when i roll on the throttle in second gear i dont get much response, real doughy. however if i am at a stoplight, it is hard as heck to get it out of first into neutral (easier when rolling up to a light). when at neutral after starting the bike or even after having it running for 20 min or more i get a lot more grinding noise than usual when going down into first. and at times when starting the bike the kickstart will lock up at the top of its swing. i've tried the old pull in the clutch and give the kickstart a few stabs to free the plates before starting trick (from here) but i still get the kickstart lock at times and am able to free it by modulating the amount of clutch lever squeeze i have and gently tapping on the kickstart lever. i could use some toughts / recommendations, i've done some searching on this board and am still a bit dumbfounded, i'm considering ripping it all apart and putting it back together with new springs and plates to get nice and intimate with my bike as i haven't gotten her left cover off yet

i guess i'll need a clutch hub nut puller and... ? and i'll check for a broken woodruff key (?) once i find out in the manuals where that is...

jimballard · 04-18-2006

Start by slacking off the clutch cable adjustment, then take off the inspection cover on the primary case. Inside you'll see a slotted screw and locknut. With the bike in gear and holding the rear brake on, loosen the locknut, back the screw off until it's loose then turn the screw back in until it just touches. back the screw off a little bit, 1/8th turn should be enough, and while holding it in place, tighten the locknut; I usually use and old socket and grab it with water pump pliers while holding the screw with a screwdriver through the socket, now tighten the locknut with the ratchet wrench, holding the brake on again. Put the cover back on and adjust the cable so there's 1/8th inch of free play. NOW, TAKE THE BIKE OUT OF GEAR; and go for a ride.

Hope this helps: Jim

[ This message was edited by: jimballard on 2006-04-18 11:14 ]

johnnypence · 04-18-2006

i hope that works for you kanoa. that pretty much describes what i did for phase 1 of my clutch problem. phase 2 is waiting for my next paycheck so i can buy a couple items. until then, i just have to hope that my adjustment worked.

and seriously, i'd like to meet the guy who wrote that part of the haynes manual.

tridentt150v · 04-18-2006

A lot of clutch problems are the result of the clutch pressure plate running out of true.

To access this and check you have to have the primary cover off and kick the bike over with the clutch lever pulled in and see if the pressure plate wobbles or is true as it spins.

I went to NH 7 plate and SRM needle roller pressure plate years ago, the only way to fly.

DAGAD · 04-19-2006

Sorry to dissagree Trident but the only way to go is to strip it all out and start again. Measure every thing and replace most of it.
The main culprit WILL be the shock absorber assy which will have more slop than a sausage in a bowler hat. The clutch will allways be on it's service limit purely by it's design. Why, oh why do motor cycle clutch designers run friction material in oil???????? The reason is to lubricate the primary chain. Fit a belt and a PROPER DRY clutch and your problem will be solved, BELIEVE ME.
Alloy pressure plates and radial lift bearings only disguise the design fault in the clutch, which was designed in 1952 (with shock absorber) and a SINGLE row chain, not duplex or triplex and for power in the region of 35bhp MAX.
It's quite simple to calculate the clutch torque capacity and when you do it for a T140 it IS on the limit from new :hammer:
Roy.

okiecityflash · 04-19-2006

What's the general cost of the conversion? Can any of the existing parts be used? Whats a good brand? :???:

kanoa · 04-19-2006

well jim, thanks for the description of a proper clutch adjustment. my bike rides a bit better now and finds neutral like it used to. i still noticed a bit of slipping at high revvs in third gear and even more in fourth, where the bike basically didnt want to go over 70mph. i'll probably get in there and take a look at the plates sometime soon. thanks for all of the tips.

-daniel

DAGAD · 04-19-2006

Hi Flash, check out Bob Oswald at QPD inc. Not sure of the web address but that should find it on a search engine. my clutch / electric start is a copy of Bobs' own systems. If you want to see the clutch arrangement and parts (belt drive) check out 'Roys' SAINT' pictures in the album, it's all there.
Roy.

peintremondain · 04-21-2006

the belt drive is a good but expensive solution!
i had a slipping clutch on my t 120 and i have bought a seven plain plates kit on ebay to a guy named kullero(on ebay)the plates are thinner and allow to put one more bonded plate(standard surflex).
the surface of friction is increased and it works!!
no more slipping!!!
his plain plates are anti warp in their design and it helps too!
it's important to ensure that the compression plate lifts evenly! if you have a dial gauge you can do it very accuratelyand it's sensible when you ride!
hope this helps.
you can contact kullero by mail:kullero@iki.fi

kanoa · 04-22-2006

thanks for the tip on the plates. here's the worst of my friction plates, you think it's bad enough to swap them out?

i got in there today and removed a wobble from the pressure plate but it is raining like hell so i didnt get to take her out and see if it helped.

cheers,
daniel