Triumphrat

tealetm · 04-17-2006, 07:54 AM

Well, my love for motorcyleing and Triumphs was spurred on by my fathers late 60's Triumph. Its been sitting in the barn for years, and I know it has poor/no compression. I'm going to get some more information on it, but I know I'd like to strip/clean/quickly restore it. Since I don't like at home (2+ hours) nor do I have many pictures, I'm trying to do a little research on the bike prior to digging in.

Now don't fret- this won't be perfectly restored, all #'s matching bike by any means. My father says its a Bonnie lower end and a Tiger top end- and can't recall exactly what year what parts are from.

My question is, are there any resources out there which lists part diagrams from several models (engine/tranny esp.) and their corresponding parts?

Like I said, once I start getting into it I'll post up some more information but I would like to do a little research first. Thanks guys!

GrandPaulZ · 04-17-2006, 08:13 AM

Triumph parts books are cheap enough, and the Haynes & Clymer manuals cover all models, but nowhere will you find anything that illustrates each part to the degree it would take to differentiate between parts from certain years that are similar, yet different.

Welcome to the Old World!

KADUTZ · 04-17-2006, 08:45 PM

:-D Welcome to the Positive side of The Force :-D
I think most of the problems you will find can be worked out over this forum.
Many parts can be interchanged from year to year if done in GROUPS or LUMPS (now thats a real hi-tech term). An unknown part can usually be identified by the casting number(when there is one) and measurements.
If you have a tiger top end it will have 1 carb. A bonnie bottom end serial number will start with T120 if it is in the original frame the number will match.
If it were me I'd first get a Haynes brand manual and a parts book to match serial numbers and go from there.........

tealetm · 05-15-2006, 07:44 AM

Well, I started working on the bike this past weekend- didn't start (not that I expected it to). While kicking over, a high pitched sound of air leaking past the piston was heard (I assume meaning low compression). So I pulled the barrels off and am going to measure the cylinders and see what they are.

Several questions:

Frame #: T120R DU38796
Engine # DU5669
Single Carb

Some insight?

Also... where could I find the typical cylinder diameter so I can see if and by how much it's been bored out?

Aside from perusing through this forum (which I'm slowly doing) any other good sites to read up on tech specs/numbers/etc.?

GrandPaulZ · 05-15-2006, 08:49 AM

That's a '66 Bonneville frame with a '63 engine. Is the engine stamped TR6 or T120R?

You'll need both parts books, along with a 3rd book if the top end doesn't match these two.

e-mail me and I'll quote a price, along with a shop manual.

You may have needed to torque the head down, or it may have a blown head gasket.

Bonnie Development History is the best book there is.

[ This message was edited by: GrandPaulZ on 2006-05-15 06:54 ]

tealetm · 05-15-2006, 10:16 AM

Grandpaulz,

Thanks for looking into that. Unfortunately its early on a monday morning and I switched the numbers...

The FRAME is DU5669, and the ENGINE is T120R DU 38796.

Head gasket was fine...torque seemed ok without measuring it when I removed it.

What are the typical overbore dimensions? .02, .06, up to...? .08 over? I know its been bored before... I have to measure it but I need something to reference it to.

GrandPaulZ · 05-15-2006, 11:40 AM

Then frame is '63, engine is '66.

Standard bore = 2.79527"

.020 overbore = 2.81527"

.040 overbore = 2.83527"

.060 overbore = 2.85527"

Pistons should be stamped on top.

DAGAD · 05-16-2006, 02:40 AM

Hi GPZ, next time I see John Nelson, I will tell him how highly you rate his book. I completely agree with you and as he only lives 20 miles from me, I get to see him quite regularly. He is also running a Triumph car and last year I made a new propshaft for it.
Now personally, I would not use a Haynes manual. Clymer I can't comment on, but I believe they are good. Did you know that through J.R.Technical publications, the ORIGINAL shop manuals are available for most of the models?
J.R.Tech is the company John Nelson set up to re make the factory manuals and parts books. Although he sold the company to Trevor Gleadall( L..P.Williams) ALL the literature is available................ GENUINE FACTORY.
Roy.

KADUTZ · 05-16-2006, 07:08 AM

Roy
I feel the book Triumph Tiger 100 and Daytona,by JR Nelson
is as good for the 500's as Bonnie is for the 650/750 twins and any library should have both books.
By the way what are your thoughts on John Tippler's two books?
I do agree that the factory manuals are the best the problem that retailers face is the cost issue. Haynes sell for about $25.00 , Clymers (combined Triumph,BSA,Norton) goes for $30 to $35 range. The factory manuals go for between $60 and $100 depending who you are talking to. (note I am referring to the real manuals not the bootleg copies that show up). I think Ipaid $15 twenty years ago for the 8 valve supplement to my T140ES Factory manual.
A lot of guys,over here, wont spend the money

DAGAD · 05-17-2006, 01:30 PM

Kadutz, yes the T100 Daytona is good, especially if you have the parts list supplement which accompanies it. The T100D on the front cover is John's own bike.
Don't know any work from John Tippler? His name I don't recognise. Have I made a boo boo there??? Let me know what the titles are and I will see if I can get a look. Seems as though I am really missing something?
I will call Trevor tomorrow and get prices for factory manuals and shipping costs for America. You guys are really missing out if all you can get is Haynes.
Roy.