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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 04-12-2006, 07:10 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Evidently there's supposed to be a ring of steel with two protusions welded to the lower part of the steering head. These stop the bottom yoke from turning too far, which stops the upper yoke from hitting the fuel tank.

My ride has the ring, but no protrusions, and I'm losing valuable paint off the tank. Major strip down this winter to fix items like this.

Has anyone got a decent description of this "steering stopper", or some digital pics they can email me so I can see how it's designed. Need to make a replacement.
I can probably make it from scratch, but would like to keep it as close to "genuine" as I can. Really wish I'd picked this up before I got the frame powder coated.

I'd really appreciate any guidance.

Pete
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Old 04-12-2006, 11:15 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Hindsight is a ***** sometimes whether building a new house or working on a scooter. That's why I'm waiting for parts again. Minor s***. Would the stops be the same on a '79? Luck with your post. Loved Australia. (maritime '58) PS: Like the States, And I chundered alot in those days.
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Old 04-12-2006, 03:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The lock stops are usually part of the lower yoke, at least on most bikes i've ever come across. I can't remember what my 77 Triumph had.

By coincidence, I've spent the last couple of hours filing down the lockstops on my modern Triumph because the were way too limiting.
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Old 04-12-2006, 03:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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On the '79 the stops are part of the triple clamp and the stppers are part of rhe yoke. Both are welded parts. I'm surer yours are different. Hope some one puts you right.
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Old 04-12-2006, 07:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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OzBloke,
That steel ring at the bottom of the frame neck did not have any protrusions the ends of the ring just came so far around and the bottomyoke would come in contact stopping the fork. With abuse this ring would be peeled back so far allowing the fork to turn too far. These ends can be repaired by building them up with a small bead of weld and you can weld as much as you need to make the stops where you want them.
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Old 04-14-2006, 03:57 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks guys.

I'll have a really close look when I take the front end off in a few weeks. Looking forward to more time on the tools, gettin' dirty, playin' with heavy metal! You gotta love it!

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Old 04-14-2006, 10:25 AM   #7 (permalink)
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OzBloke, I'm worried about you. Gone around the bend or just a touch of masochism. I guess it's more fun when you know what you are doing. :hammer:
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Old 04-17-2006, 06:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Tip,

If you use alfoil [cooking alfoil from a supermarket] you can 'mask' your paintwork on the frame and minimise the spatter from the weld.

Its good stuff too, because it can be crunched into just about any shape without the need fro tape to hold it in place. And your missus/mum will always have some in the kitchen.
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Old 04-17-2006, 09:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Great tip, TridentT150V. Definitely be using that when I grind & weld.
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Old 06-03-2006, 09:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I finally figured it out. Went and took a look at some bikes similar to mine, found out how it's supposed to be, and finally tracked a part down through a local Triumph repairer - great bloke, really helpful. He'll definitely get repeat business from me.

Here is a picture explaining the issue.



The left hand 3/4 ring was what was welded at the bottom of my steering neck. This explains why I had no steering stop. The previous owner (Mr Butcher I reckon) had obviously tried several times to bodge (gerry-rig) a fix. I carefully ground off the weld with Dremel, and cleaned up the dags.

The right hand part is what should have been welded there, explaining why I was asking about "protrusions".

All fixed, and thanks for your advice.

Pete


[ This message was edited by: OzBloke on 2006-06-03 19:32 ]
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