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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 04-08-2006, 08:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Getting all the tins by may first then I'm off and running :-D

A few electronics questions:

I took the points out and put in the Boyer, this makes the condensor pack useless, right. Also I still need the Zener and rectifier, unles I get a solid state replacement, correct? Who makes this replacement?

I lined up the timing mark on fully advanced and installed the Boyer, this should get the bike started but I'll need to check the timing with a strobe, correct?

Also, it seems that powdercoating insulates the frame. Every where my harness grounds to the frame I need to scrape away the powdercoating?

Also who makes a oil filter for my 1970 TR6 and where do you install it?

[ This message was edited by: quagmire on 2006-04-08 19:27 ]
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Old 04-08-2006, 11:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quagmire,

Don't know about the oil filter, but the rest I can answer.

Condensers (or capacitors) are not used with the Boyer. You can either remove them completely, or leave them in disconnected, just in case you need to put the points back in. Tape over the connectors.

Zener and Rectifier need to stay, unless you replace with newer version or a "pack". Others on this forum will provide better advice than I can on the rectifier/battery replacement packs you can buy. What I did was go down to my local electronics parts shop and buy a 35Amp bridge rectifier for $5, mounted it on an aluminium L bracket as a heatsink, and bolted that in place of the old rectifier. Same connections, bu a lot smaller. Kept the Zener - it was new from the re-build anyway.

Timing with stobe after Boyer fitting is essential. Note that you'll see less of a difference in the advance between idle and 5000RPM than you used to see with the points between idle and 3000. Mechanical advance used to be about 24 deg, while Boyer does about 10 deg. Therefore the bike is more advanced at idle with the Boyer, which may mean you need to play with idle speed and mixture.

Powder coat does insulate (its plastic) so you will need to scrape away. This is also necessary to provide for heat sinking, especially on the Zener.

Hope this helps.

Pete
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Old 04-09-2006, 09:42 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Pete gave you 100% correct poop.

I can get you a cool "finned egg" with electronics in it that do away with Zener, rectifier & regulator. e-mail off forum for details & price.
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Old 04-09-2006, 06:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hi Quag,

Glad to hear that you're still alive and kicking. I put an oil filter kit on my '70 but I can't remember the name of it, as it was many years ago. It uses the Trident's filter element and I mounted it on the frame's rear downtube so that I could change the element just by opening the saddle. I'm sure that Don Hutchinson, or Jay Strait at Britech, could tell you what it is, assuming it's still being made. The filter elements are beginning to go up in price, but that's the price (no pun intended) that one has to pay.

Hope this helps; Jim
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Old 04-09-2006, 11:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The oil filter kit being refered to is easily available from any decent Brit Bike dealer as is the solid state rectifier zener in the heat sink. Excellent Dealer directory is in the TIOC website. While Britech isnt listed Iam sure he has it or can get it .
also take a look at the postings from a few days ago "oil filter"

[ This message was edited by: KADUTZ on 2006-04-09 21:43 ]
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Old 04-10-2006, 09:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies. Jim, I'm still here it's just been too cold up here to work in my unheated garage. the weather's nice now in MA and I'm dying to get this bike on the road. I can't wait to hear it when it starts up (if it starts up!)

Kadutz, I saw that post but I wasn't sure if the filter would be different for the 71 TR6 as it is an OIF.

I'm visiting Hutch next week for stuff and I'll ask him about the filter.
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Old 04-10-2006, 09:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Filter is the same a few mounting parts are different
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