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| Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes. |
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03-28-2006, 06:51 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: oklahoma city, okla 73135
Posts: 674
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Installed a fairly good oil pressure gauge today. I have 15# at idle, 26# at 1800-2000rpm and some where around 33# when I run it up to about 3000rpm. I'm afraid to goose it more than that till I get some feedback. The owners manual says the oil pressure is nil at idle. What their idea of nil is I have nil idea :???: . Sure need some imput, I'm sweating it out. Thank for your help through this, Bro's. Only got 10k on this bike. Well maintained since new.
[ This message was edited by: okiecityflash on 2006-03-28 16:53 ]
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03-28-2006, 07:49 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
World SuperBike Favourite Bike: 2002 Triumph Trophy
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 2,040 Other Motorcycle: 1970 Triumph Tiger 650 Extra Motorcycle: 1999 Yamaha Virago 1100
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Okie,
The manual says 20/25 at idle; 65/80 at "running speed". I'd call 3,000 r.p.m. "running speed". I hate to say it, but it looks like you've got to go into the engine; hopefully, it's just the pump. Are you sure the relief valve is working properly? Tough question, I know, but if there's a way of making sure that it isn't being held open a bit....
Good luck, hope it's a minor problem: Jim
__________________
Jim Ballard
The older I get, the faster I was....until lately!! (Speed IS the fountain of youth)!
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03-28-2006, 09:13 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: oklahoma city, okla 73135
Posts: 674
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When I started it this morning( cold oil) I was getting lots of return so I thought the oil regulator was operating OK. This afternoon after I installed the gauge it was (65degrees) I got very little oil return. I'm going to start it in the morning again and if it doesn't repeat like this morning I'll suspect the oil regulator first. The regulator piston had some scratches on it, but it was working good this morning because the oil poured out the return on start up so I'm sure it was dumping it into the crankcase. Made me think the pump was working good too. Evidently if the crank seal in the timing cover is leaking it will lose pressure into the sump. Another possibility. I keep coming back the gasket sealer in pump. I'll order pump gasket and crank seal tomorrow. Is the cover difficult to reinstall with out the triumph alignment tool? :hammer:
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03-28-2006, 10:39 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme Favourite Bike: 77 Bonneville
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 793
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Someone please let me know if my logic is unsound.....
If there are no restrictions from the oil reservoir (tank or OIF), and the intake side of the pump is working properly, the oil going into the engine will eventually end up in the sump (whether via big end, top end gear, or relief valve), to be pumped out by the output side of the oil pump. The output side of the pump has a greater capacity than the input side, to ensure the sump doesn't fill with oil. Oil regulator/relief valve should only operate (and dump oil to the sump) when high pressure is reached - eg 80psi.
If the pump is good, and there is a leak internally (relief valve stuck open or crankshaft seal stuffed), the oil would still end up in the sump, and you would see good return, but low oil pressure.
If the pressure is low, and the return flow is poor (as is the case here), this (IMHO) points to a restriction in the intake side of the oil pump, or a bad pump on the intake side.
Okiecityflash - you're doing the right thing checking the pump and replacing the seal, but please also check the filter and hose to the intake side of the pump while you're down there. Also a good idea to ensure there are no restrictions/crud in the internal oil channels (timing cover and behind pump - blow with compressed air <70PSI)
Good luck with it.
Pete
__________________
Per Ardua Ad Astra
(Through difficulties to the stars)
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03-29-2006, 12:38 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: oklahoma city, okla 73135
Posts: 674
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Thanks Pete. This problem started when I changed oil and cleaned filters. I had a slight drip at the filter plate and used some loctite gasket sealant and replaced it. Thats when I first noticed the indicator light flickering. It didn't happen on the road. I renewed the hoses the other day so I know they are not the problem. I'm going to check the oil pump and blow out the oil drillings next. My first thought was some gasket cement might have gotten to the pump. Sticky stuff. I'll go ahead and replace the seal at the same time. :???:
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03-29-2006, 01:46 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Member
Grand Prix 125
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NorthEastern U.S.A.
Posts: 35
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This just happened after your oil change/ filter cleaning????
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03-29-2006, 01:52 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: DERBY, ENGLAND
Posts: 1,458
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Good posting Pete, logical it is! Flash, when you get the crank seal, buy 2 and replace the one at the exhaust camshaft / ignition at the same time, it's the same seal.
Check the stub end of the crank for damage and dimentions. Check the size with the manual (don't have it to hand at the mo). Also check the seal BEFORE you remove it from the cover to see if the lip has turned over / been pushed out. This sometimes happens and that is where the pressure is lost.
Now, saying all that, I agree with your thought that a piece of goo is blocking the pump. Remove the caps and the springs and balls as well as the plungers before cleaning with a solvent. the square caps over the springs will need a 1/8" whitworth spanner to remove them.
Once all is clean, I have a small copper punch which I use to 'tap' the balls onto the seats to make a new sealing face. Do one at a time and replace spring and cap before moving onto the next one, repeat. Check the pump bores and plungers for scoring, paying particular attention to the bottom of the bores where the inlet window is.
If all is ok, lub up the pistons with oil and work in and out. You should get good vaccuum when you try to pull them out and a small 'fart' when oil is pressured past the ball seat when pushed in.
DO NOT use any sealant on the oil pump gasket. Put it on dry. Oil will run out of the face when the pump is removed so get ready to block it off while you service the pump. If in doubt, replace the pump!
Roy.
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03-29-2006, 02:11 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: oklahoma city, okla 73135
Posts: 674
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Mucho Gracias. :chug:
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03-29-2006, 04:34 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Site Supporter SOTP Vintage Series Favourite Bike: '67 Triumph Bonneville
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Laredo, Texas
Posts: 7,674 Other Motorcycle: British Iron Extra Motorcycle: Dreer Norton Prototype
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<<I renewed the hoses the other day so I know they are not the problem. >>
Are you sure you didn't mix up the hoses?
Hey, it happens, you know?
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03-29-2006, 10:39 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: oklahoma city, okla 73135
Posts: 674
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You are right about that , but I'm sure they are correct. This mornings scenario: 60 degrees ambient temperature, started bike, 30psi @ 2k rpm for 20 seconds, jumped to 60psi, ran it about 4 or 5 min and was holding 55-60 plus @1500-2000(goosing it a little ) Should that tell me anything? Yesterday afternoon after not running for 7 hours, approx. same ambient temp. 20-30 psi same rpm's. was maximum. When I cleaned and inspected the oil regulator Monday, I noticed a few scratches on the piston. I think I'm going to order a new regulator before proceeding. Any thoughts? Thanks for Interest in my problem.
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