Triumphrat

okiecityflash · 03-25-2006

After changing oil and cleaning filters my oil light is flickering at idle. Oil is returning and it goes off around 1500-2500 rpm. My idle is set at 1000 rpm. I'm thinking maybe the oil switch is going bad, but I'm not usually that lucky. The motor only has 10k on it and has been well maintained. It seemed like today it started flickering after the oil warmed up a little. I'm afraid to ride it and blow it up. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. Frank :???:

jimballard · 03-25-2006

Hi Frank,

What weight oil did you use? I had that happen once when I tried a synthetic (long, long, ago), and my '70 will still do it on a hot day. Also, it could be the sending unit getting tired. Try to get an oil pressure gauge that'll thread into the sending unit's port (possibly a dealer will have one) and check it out. My Haynes manual give figures of 20/25 p.s.i. idling and 65/80 p.s.i. at normal running speeds.

Hope this helps: Jim

[ This message was edited by: jimballard on 2006-03-25 13:58 ]

okiecityflash · 03-25-2006

Thanks Jim. I just checked the oil pressure regulator and it looked good and I checked the sending unit with some compressed air and the indicator light would go out with minimum pressure. Checked it about 15 times and it was consistent. The only dealer we have is stocking parts for Hinkley's only. I'll call him just to make sure. I think I'll have to pull the cover and check the pump, oil block and oil ways. I think that maybe some gasket sealer got in the oil pump. I guess I'll take it out and see if its operating according to the shop manual. Never worked on a Trump before so I might be asking a lot of questions. :???: :???: :???: ps: I'm running 20/50

[ This message was edited by: okiecityflash on 2006-03-25 17:17 ]

jimballard · 03-25-2006

O.K. Frank,

Make sure that the sending unit didn't have a bit of junk in it before you go tearing things down. Try to find a gauge to fit first; the threads should be Unified ones which will take U.S. fittings. Also, all 20/50 oils are not created equal; I'm using motorcycle specific ones like Torco...but there are others. These are made for air cooled, older motors which don't like the newer car oils. The car oils of today are a far cry from the ones I was using way back in the 1970's and have additives that can actually be a bit detrimental to the old bikes (or so I've been led to believe). I bet I've opened a "can of worms" here with that statement, but......

Really try to fit a gauge, it could save you a lot of work: Jim

okiecityflash · 03-25-2006

Well I'm glad to hear unified threads will take U.S. fittings. I'm going out tomorrow and try to find a gauge that will fit. I still don't understand exactly how the oil pressure regulator works. I see that the oil goes through the screen under pressure and actuates the piston. Are there some holes the piston uncovers as it slides back and forth on a variance in pressure, like a gas -operated, automatic rifle or does it just absorb the spikes in pressure? If I can understand the principal I generally can figure things out. Thanks for the help. :???:

[ This message was edited by: okiecityflash on 2006-03-25 22:55 ]

Joe-Dirt · 03-26-2006

Quote:

On 2006-03-25 17:56, jimballard wrote:
These are made for air cooled, older motors which don't like the newer car oils. The car oils of today are a far cry from the ones I was using way back in the 1970's and have additives that can actually be a bit detrimental to the old bikes (or so I've been led to believe). I bet I've opened a "can of worms" here with that statement, but......

Isn't the main difference being the older oils were non-detergent, and the new oils are detergent? So if you use an external spin-on type filter, you can take advantage of modern oils. Modern detergent oil would be bad without a filter, since all the particles and such would constantly be circulating in the engine, instead of depositing (in the sludge trap).

jimballard · 03-26-2006

Actually, Joe,

Modern detergent oils were what we used in the late 60's and beyond. We changed our oil a lot, that's all. In the real "old days" the non-detergent oils were probably better at keeping the crud stuck to the inner walls of the crankcase and out of the sludge trap. Of course, this was in the days of 25,000 mile teardowns (engine was designed in the '30's), and the walls were cleaned at that time. As you noted, a modern filter can be added to these bikes and there are a few kits out there to do it; highly recommended. I was referring to the synthetic oils as opposed to mineral based detergent ones. If nothing else, very frequent oil changes are a must, especially without a filter.

See, I said that I'd open a "can of worms" with that statement: Jim

jimballard · 03-26-2006

Frank,

I believe, after checking a manual, that the valve is to release excess pressure by bleeding oil back into the sump when necessary, i.e. cold starts or real full throttle running. It would need a very weak, or broken, spring to make the light flicker at an idle, as it requires over 80 p.s.i. to move it under normal conditions. Of course, it could be stuck in the open position, but that's seems to be far-fetched. Get a gauge on it before you go too far; try to find one with a hose on it, as that'll make it easier to install.

Correct me if I'm wrong on this, anybody: Jim

okiecityflash · 03-26-2006

Thats what it looked like to me too. It looks like with it compressing it allows oil to go to the sump in the tappet area. I believe you hit it on the head. The lubricating drawings in the manuals are not real clear, for me anyhow. I got a 1'' deep well socket today to pull the oil regulator and clean and inspect it per shop manual instructions. I checked the spring free length. 1" & 3/8" as specified. I pulled the oil regulator body and inspected the piston and everything operated properly so I can discount it being the problem. No luck on an oil pressure gauge today. Maybe tomorrow. Thanks guy, I'll see what happens. Kadutz suggested the crankcase end seal in the timing cover sending oil directly to the sump. The shop manual also mentions this. That very well might be it. :???:

[ This message was edited by: okiecityflash on 2006-03-26 23:29 ]

jimballard · 03-27-2006

Hey Frank,

Remember that the oil pressure gauge goes into the port for the sending unit, which also could be weak.

Just another thought: Jim