Triumphrat

HankQ

Does the little hole on the tappet face in or out? I can see how the original tappets came out from wear, however this places the tappet holes in conflicting directions. I want to set the record straight.Hank

DAGAD

Hi Hank, the holes should point OUT. Check in the exhaust tappet block and you should see the holes on the outside faces of the bores.
The feed comes from the right hand crankcase via a dowel. It then goes along a gallery in the base of the barrels and then circulates the exhaust (ONLY, not inlet) tappet block. There is an 'O' ring around the base of the guide block which you should replace if you remove the block.
Triumph messed around with this pressure feed to the exhaust cam followers, first ly in 1965. Then it was dropped, re-instated and then finally in 1981 dropped again.
Roy.

okiecityflash

Thats probably where the little leak comes from on mine. The o-ring.

HankQ

Thanks Dagad, I've had the tappets apart a few times, but this is my first full rebuild. I never really paid attention to how they went back as far as the holes were concerned. I always just marked them to go back in the same place. Thanks again, Hank.

TRI-AL

:hammer:

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Styx... (Renegade)

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okiecityflash

I've thought about all that easy stuff myself. Should we ever be so lucky. I have a little one on the o-ring on the valve adjuster left side also. I only have one ride now, so I hate to have it down to long. How long did it take you in actual hours TRI-AL? It's not to the point it actual leaks on the floor, but I don't like it. They just started alittle while back when I started riding it more.

TRI-AL

If it's not leaking that bad, put up with it as long as you can. You'll know when it's time to "tear it apart"! When you do, you have to "pull the cylinders" as the tappet block has to be removed from BELOW as that's where the O-ring is. Ozbloke in OZ had the idea to disconnect the pistons at the wrist pins thereby "theoretically" not disturbing the rings. I tried it & it worked 4 a while then I wound up with a complete bore, new rings/pistons anyway. You NEED a Haynes/Clymer manual - they help!
Cost wasn't all that bad & I'm glad I did it. Only @ 1K mi. since "rebuild" & NO leaks! The upper rocker arm O-ring can be replaced by "carefully" tapping the rocker arm shaft out from the rt side JUST ENOUGH to roll the old one off & new one on & gently "tap" the shaft back in OR you can try useing silicone sealer right into the shaft with your finger without disturbing anything! I tried it & is holding so far. Used black color sealer & sprayed with carb cleaner 1st. Good luck! Ride it 'till you can't anymore then do what needs 2 B done!

__________________
...and the Rocket's red glare


The jig is up.
The news is out.
They finally found me!
Styx... (Renegade)

Ride each ride like it may be your Last!

okiecityflash

Thanx. I guess then it will get worse?

TRI-AL

In all likelihood,.....yes, BUT....it usually takes time. That O-ring on the rocker shaft is a "special" that is "squared" off - not your typical O-ring----should you decide to replace it.....in the meantime, you can try just cleaning the area of all traces of oil (carb/brake cleaner) and smeering the silicone in the area around the shaft. THAT one's easy! For the tappet leak, just wait 'till you can't take it anymore. Start "prepareing" for the inevitable NOW! Collect gasket sets, etc. Wait for bad weather or winter or something then "dive in"! Have Fun!

__________________
...and the Rocket's red glare


The jig is up.
The news is out.
They finally found me!
Styx... (Renegade)

Ride each ride like it may be your Last!