Triumphrat

crazypierre · 02-16-2006

Hi Guys
All this talk of silicone and leaky fork tops has reminded me that my Bonnie has developed a leak from somewhere around the drain plug of the primary chain case (the area nbehind the left foot peg). It could be the gasket or (now I'm thinking) it could be the plug threads that need silicone....

Either way, the plug (nut) seems very difficult to get at. What's the trick? I think I need to remove the footpeg and maybe even the exhaust pipe to unscrew it?

Any thoughts?
Pete

okiecityflash · 02-16-2006

I think I get it one flat at a time. I use a flexible screw driver for chain adj. I was just looking at the tool kit that came with this bike. Pitiful. No wonder Meridan went under in a modern world. The screwdriver came from behind the Iron Curtain.

ps: I think it has an o ring.

[ This message was edited by: okiecityflash on 2006-02-16 10:05 ]

jimballard · 02-16-2006

Just a thought:

On my '70, the threaded plug uses a fiber gasket; some time back, I couldn't stop a slow leak from it and discovered that it had worn to almost paper thin and cracked in the flange area. A new plug was all that was needed to cure my ills.

If you're willing to listen to the wisdom of a fool: Jim

Lutz · 02-16-2006

crazypierre,
I usually use a 3/8 drive 7/16 universal joint socket with a
6" or 7" extention ang go from behind the frame there is no need to remove the footrest.
This has always worked very well for me.I also use the same setup to turn the adjuster. It takes som finesse but with a few trys you will find it quite easy.

Lutz

Lutz · 02-16-2006

Hey guys the method described is for oil in frame models. On older models it helps to make sure that the frame bolt nearest the primary plug goes from the outside with the nut on the inside this makes it a whole lot easier.
Lutz

DAGAD · 02-17-2006

Hi Pete, just check that your bike has the EARLY blanking plug rather than the LATER adjusting screw / plug.
Do this before trying to cure any oil leaks as it could save problems in the future.
If your plug is JUST a hexagon then it is easily removable. However if it has a bolt running through it, it's the later type which adjusts the chain differently, via this through bolt.
Check it out.
Roy.

crazypierre · 02-17-2006

Hi Roy
I've just been into the garage with a torch and can confirm its a simple hexagonal plug with what looks like a copper washer on it. (Not a through bolt.)
Hard to tell if the oil leak is indeed from the plug or the chaincase gasket....

What would you guys suggest I change first (chaincase gasket or plug washer?) IE: What's easier to do? Also if I change the chaincase gasket, do I need to slacken the chain tensioner first?

Thanks guys.
Pete

DAGAD · 02-17-2006

Hi Pete, do the blanking plug anyway. It's easiest and cheapest to go for first. It should be an 'O' ring seal and not a copper washer.
however it might not be a bad idea to whip the primary chain case off any way and take a look inside. Do it now before the good weather comes.
You can check the tensioner blade, alternator, clutch and chain. Also put in fresh oil, SAE 20 mineral oil if you can get it, NOT 20/50 or semi synthetic car oil.
Roy.

crazypierre · 02-17-2006

Thanks Roy (an the rest of the guys too.)
I'll check out the plug/washer first.

The list of jobs on my bike continues to grow. So far:
-Chaincase leak to resolve
-Oil drain plug leak to sort out (will try silicone on that too as no matter how tight I tighten it, it still leaks!)
-carb to be soaked in cellulose thinners
-Fork top seal leak to be changed
-new front tyre to be fitted
No rest for the wicked....

Out of interest, what is a 2006 White Tiger? Is it s special order/coloured Tiger? Could not find a white one on the Triumph site.......
Pete

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okiecityflash · 02-17-2006

Spring tasks. Think how lucky we are. No rods, piston or valve repair.