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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 06-09-2013, 09:33 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Testing T140 coils

My T140 has been playing up a bit lately and I suspect it is coil related.
I have followed the testing sequence in the Triumph manual,
remove w/b wire from coil 2, turn ignition on and volt test each coil terminal, all are over 12 volts.
I then re-fitted the w/b wire to coil 2 and volt tested the negative terminal on coil 2 for voltage. The manual says it should be zero, I am getting over 12 volts.
Am I doing something wrong or is there a faulty coil?
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:51 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Have a look at test 4 and crank the engine. Still the same?
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:40 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I have rotated the crank into various positions, just in case the Tri-spark was in the firing position, but I still get 12v, when the manual says it should be zero.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:20 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I thought you must have had oiginal Lucas Rita ignition,from the test procedure and wire colours.
If the Trispark is anything like Boyer,the coils aren't energised if the engine is not turning.
What bike is this?It sounds like it's negative ground.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:34 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Hi Mr Pete,

bike is a T140E, 12V with 2 x 6v coils.
The Tri-spark unit uses the same connections at the coils W/B and W/Y as the Lucas Amp box did.
The bike will start and idle ok, it only starts to miss when the revs get above 2000rpm then it eventually stops. But it will re-start again.
It almost seems as if the coils are breaking down under load, or the Tri-spark is not advancing.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:57 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Use the manufacturers manual for testing E.I.'s not the triumph book.
There is a test button for the tri-spark unit.
http://www.trispark.com.au/images/Cl...ual%202013.pdf

If it passes the tests, its likely to be a carbs issue.

Last edited by Caulky; 06-10-2013 at 03:59 AM. Reason: Addition
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caulky View Post
Use the manufacturers manual for testing E.I.'s not the triumph book.
There is a test button for the tri-spark unit.
http://www.trispark.com.au/images/Cl...ual%202013.pdf
Hi Caulky, the test button is only fitted on the latest 2013 model. Mine is 3 yrs old and has no test facility, it has done 2000 miles.
The model I have has an LED for static timing, it light everytime the plugs fire. The LED is working and the plugs have a spark, but not all that strong IMO.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:13 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The coils should have about 2.2 ohms +/- 0.2 ohms primary resistance.
Also check secondary resistance between the negative coil terminal and the plug lead,or the coil tower where the plug lead fits.That should be thousands of ohms,maybe 5000 or more.A secondary failure is usually open-circuit (infinite resistance).

If the plug lead can throw a spark 1/4",the coil is usually OK.

The fault is more likely coming from a bad contact in the ignition wiring,like the kill-switch or ignition switch.

Test the voltage at coil 1 +VE terminal when the engine is running.See if you still have battery voltage.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks Mr Pete,

I have tested my coils and I think they are ok,

primary resistance both coils 2.2 ohms

secondary resistance between neg coil terminal and coil tower

left 8100 ohms, right 8190 ohms.

I did the test again between neg coil terminal and plug cap and the readings were significantly higher

left 17920 ohms, right 17380 ohms

Tested the coil 1 positive with bike running 12.6v, same as battery.

Do the higher resistance readings through the plug caps indicate a problem?
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Old 06-11-2013, 04:24 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The plug caps are loaded, which is normal for electronic ign. or regulators.
However, the resistance of the caps should be 5000 Ohms.
Yours appear to be about 9,000 Ohms.
This might be because the plug caps and the plugs are both loaded.
Loaded plugs have an `R` in the number.
Measure the resistance of the leads.

Bear in mind the voltage immediately before it arcs is the same as if it was unloaded.
But the current will be reduced.

They are loaded to prevent huge spikes being reflected back to the circuitry, which can damage the unit.
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