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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 12-11-2012, 12:36 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Oil capacity 1973 TR7V T140

Firstly I'd like to thank all those who've taken time to post on this forum, it's been a great resource as I've just recently bought my first Triumph after riding since 1976 on various Japanese models a 1973 Triumph Tiger TR&V.

This brings me to my question, how much oil should it hold in total. I did an oil change on Saturday and fitted a filter in the return line. I drained the primary case, and sump and everything else was thoroughly drained by the time all the hoses etc. had been removed and the oil filter fitted. The oil capacity is quoted as 4 pints/4.8 US pints. I pre-filled the oil filter which took about a 1/2 of a US pint and added the specified amount into the primary case, poured some in through the timing hole, and then filled the frame. In all I used 6 US pints and it's still a little low after running the bike and checking everything. It would take about another 1/4 US pint to bring it up to the proper level with cold oil. So in total 6.25 US pints/5 Pints does that sound right? How long would the engine need to be run to return any surplus oil to the tank if I overdid the amount put in to the primary and crankshaft?

Does the 4 pints/4.8 pints include the oil for the primary case or is that separate? Having heard so much about the oil capacity of the OIF bikes being small, I was rather surprised to find I needed to buy a 4th quart of Valvoline 20/50 today, so I'd have some on hand to top off/ top up. When I bought the original three quarts I was expecting to have some spare.

As an aside, filter used is a head to take the Harley Davidson Perform type filter, they filter down to 5 microns, but are supposed to be high flow so they can be used on the older Harleys in the return line in addition to the newer models that require the better filtration due to small oil ways. It's fitted where people fit the Norton filters, I just liked the idea of something a little different, the easy availability of Harley Filters and Wix equivalents, and that because the billet filter head used screw in 90 degree fittings in the top, it was easy to route the lines without any sharp bends because I could screw them in to get the optimum angle for entry and exit. I checked the filter spec. compared to the filter that fits the Norton type head and the flow rate in gph was higher for the Harley filter despite the Norton filter only filtering to 27 microns compared to 5 microns so I figured this would be OK. The oil return flow looks good.

Last edited by redhawk4; 12-11-2012 at 12:48 AM.
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Old 12-11-2012, 05:24 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The primary capacity is 5/8 pint (uk).
The sump needs about 1/4 pint.
So, the tank/frame needs about 3 pints+.
Initially I fill mine to about half way up the dipstick, and top-up as required after running the engine.
Adding the filter will increase the total capacity???

Too much oil is nearly as bad as too little.
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:03 AM   #3 (permalink)
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So the 4 pints/4.8 US pints should include the 5/8 pint/ 3/4 US pint in the primary case and the oil that goes in the sump?

Last edited by redhawk4; 12-11-2012 at 10:07 AM.
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Sorry, I can't explain how you've got 5 pints into a 4 pint pot, but maybe the filter and extra pipework accounts for 1/2 pint, and maybe you've added another 1/2 pint too much to the engine? If you haven't run it yet, maybe worth draining 1/2 pint or so, then see where the level in the tank ends up after a short ride - you can always top it up, and that's better than what I once did, which resulted in about a pint of warm oil all over everything under the seat!

I'd be interested to learn more about our Harley filter kit - I hope to be able to find them here in UK - have you got any more details on what exactly I should ask for? Cheers, John.
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I have run the bike, I had it running for about 15 to 20 minutes including running it down the road briefly, it was about -5 C outside at the time so it wasn't conducive to running it too far . I'm just wondering if I didn't run it long enough to get all the surplus back from the sump, I know I put too much in through the timing plug. Anyway I guess we'll sort that out one way or another.

The filter head I got was this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Custo...item51a563f5e0

Dan at Mooresensible was very helpful and I was able to get the 90 degree fittings etc. You can also order from the website www.mooresensible.com.

I bent the bracket into a bit less than a right angle to get it close up on the frame and then cut it to length. This gave me as much rear tire clearance as possible. I used a u bolt with a flat strap as opposed to the exhaust clamp. I fitted black rubber hose over part of the U bolt to protect the frame and then I had some 2 1/2" I.D. rubber hose left over from a project on my boat. I cut a piece of that to fit over the back of the frame tube and then clamped the bracket between that and the strap of the U bolt. I did heat the bracket a little and curve that to follow the frame tube profile. In all a solid mount and insulated from vibes.

Last edited by redhawk4; 12-11-2012 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:18 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If the sump was overfilled its likely that the primary is also.
The three holes in the crankcase allow one to drain into the other, but if the level is above the holes its got nowhere to go, except to overfill the tank.
It will likely blow out of the breather tube when hot on a run.
Has the level risen in the oil tank?
The dipstick is about 4" long so there`s plenty of leeway.

I think I`d drain the sump and see how much comes out.
Then re-prime with 1/4 pint.
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:52 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Caulky, you read my mind about draining the sump, I was thinking about it last night and felt that was the only way to settle the matter, other than risking an overflow from the tank and possible other over pressuring of seals etc. I pulled the plug this morning and I'm letting it drain. It's a cold morning so the oil is moving slowly, but it seems like a little more has come out than normal, but a lot less than I'd "reasoned: my self into expecting. I will let it sit for a couple of hours so any surplus can find it's way out of the primary etc.

I'm a little confused over how much oil I should have put in the primary. My Haynes manual jumps to the 75-83 models without 73 getting a specific mention anywhere. On those later models they are saying only 150cc 5.28/5.07 imp/us fl oz which is a lot less than the 1/2 pint or so that is being quoted elsewhere.

Any how I will let it drain down, then at least I know it is not overfilled on the bottom end, prime with a 1/4 pint and take her for a run. It seems if there isn't excess oil in the sump or primary then there should be nothing to worry about - perhaps I just have the ultra rare 73 Hi-cap oil experimental model

Last edited by redhawk4; 12-12-2012 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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http://classicbike.biz/Triumph/Repai...hop-Manual.pdf
350cc in the book

haynes are rubbish
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The chain should touch the oil.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks to everyone for their help and Dave many thanks for that extra information that certainly clarifies things.

Anyway the outcome was that I really got no more oil out of the sump than I should have, maybe 1/8 pint. I primed the crank again, ran it and it all seemed fine. I also checked the timing with my strobe light, in the course of doing this I found the oil in the primary to be level with the bottom of the round alternator cover - is that where it should be?

Anyway I'm think I'm happy with the oil issue. I will pay better attention next oil change to quantities etc.

I was having some problems with the oil pressure light flickering at idle when hot, which had me more than a little concerned. I'd hoped fresh 20/50 oil, instead of what seemed like something a little thinner that came in the bike, might do the trick - but no improvement. I bought a mechanical oil pressure gauge for $19.99 from O'Reilly Autoparts, the fitting went straight in on the motor and I routed the tube with some cable ties up the frame and fixed the gauge bracket to the handle bars with some cable ties, as a temporary rig so it would be easy to see while in motion. This showed I had 78 psi pretty much by 2000-2500 rpm (and all the way up the rpm range beyond that), with 37 psi at 1100 rpm and 25 at 500 rpm with hot oil. That made me feel much better, so it looks like a new oil pressure switch is needed. The gauge was worth every penny, as it showed me what I was anxiously wanting to see.

Incidentally, I also filled it up with fresh, no ethanol gas, I don't know what the PO had in the tank or how long it had been there, but the bike ran so differently today in terms of power and smoothness it was like two completely different bikes. When I first rode it I was a little disappointed, but today I must have had the biggest grin on my face, if it wasn't for the cold, I'd still not be home

Last edited by redhawk4; 12-12-2012 at 08:23 PM.
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