Triumphrat

Vince C

My knees are getting a bit old for kneeling so I'm looking at getting a bike lift. The Easy-Lift LL454 looks good.

http://www.saluk.info/index.php?opti...d=55&Itemid=66

Anyone got one of these? Or a different one?

z900guy

Hi

That looks good ....... I have the Clarke CML3 which is superb .... can handle a Pan European no problem

I need room for it to pivot forward though whereas yours looks to be a straigh up lift

Snakeoil

My friend has what I believe is a very early version of that lift in his shop here in the US. I believe this is the first Chinese lift imported into the US. Now, the standard Chinese lift is the type with parallel lifting arms rather than scissor arms.

My friends lift has been in constant service for many years without any issues.

I have two of the parallel arm Chinese lifts. One I bought new and the other I bought used. The used lift has a very slow leak that allows the table to slowly, almost imperceptibly lower. I simply put the blocking bar in place and it stays put. I only paid $150 for it so I'm not complaining.

Buying a lift is probably one of the nicest things you can do for your self if you work on bikes regularly, expecially if you are a bit long in the tooth. It is also handy as an extra work table when not being used as a lift.

I love mine.

regards,
Rob

DAVE M

http://www.amoirtools.co.uk

I have the small lift as my garage is a standard uk one with two bikes at the moment plus loads of stuff.

I'm very happy with the quality and it's easy to store.

EDIT

they are binkin' heavy - even the small lift. be aware that you'll need help to unwrap and as for moving a full size lift....
I'd check the height folded flat to ensure that if you need to, the car will drive over it.

epynt1050

Scissor lifts are great but need a few mods before use.

a) Lifts with a flat steel Platform will need a more "grippy" section to the platform otherwise the centre stand can slide about. A sheet of aluminium "Treadplate" bo;ted to the platform works well.

b) Fix a selection of eyebolts or U-bolts approx level with both the handlebars and the rear suspension will allow the bike to be secured and also compress either the front or rear suspension to help lift the opposite end clear of the bed.

c) Also look for a small scissors jack that can be bolted to the bed in the central position under the bike to replace the centre stand or accommodate a bike without a centre stand.

daveforty

I have a similar (hydraulic) lifting table, it is worth its (substantial) weight in gold. Got it from eBay, it wasn't expensive although I did have to drive to South Wales to collect it.

I bought a sheet of plywood to sit on the table top, sometimes being able to slip the bike about when it is on it's stand has been useful. I drilled the table top for U bolts, then used some suitably sized exhaust clamps from Halfords.

I also have a small scissor jack - it was the one supplied with the toolkit on my Bedford HA (Viva) van long long time ago. The front wheel clamp is useless, if it is a 'cost option' - don't bother.

I have the table placed in the centre of the garage floor, one bike is permananently parked on the table, so no loss of floor space.

Parking a bike on it's centre stand on the centre line of the table can be a bit of a struggle, the T140 is easy, but the Scrambler can be less easy, you will need to stand / balance on the edge of the table while you lift the bike over the stand.

(cars live outside & the Trident is long gone...)

Snakeoil

Regarding the front wheel clamp, it is pretty useless for any bike of weight. Here's what you need to make for the lift if you get it. I tooks these pics when I was stripping down my '66 T120R for the restoration.





Got the square tubing when someone in our town thru out a weight lifting bench. Mutiple sizes of square tubing, bends already made, absolutely gem of a find on trash day. I actually made a second identical wheel clamp for my other lift at our summer place. This clamp will hold a Harley with zero risk.

Something not apparent in the pics is that you need to add a piece of angle iron under the table to stiffen it up on each side. Note on the left side (side with crank handle) you can see the bolt fastening the clamp to the table. Just to the rear is another bolt head. Spanning those two bolts on the underside of the table, is a piece of 1 inch angle iron. One on each side of the table. Rag obscures teh bolt on the right side.

regards,
Rob

SlowPocono

I've bolted one of these to my table and it make loading simple and stress free.
I just push the bike into the chock and let go. It's secure enough for most work but it also makes it simple to attach the tie downs without worrying about the bike falling over.

Of course, this chock needs to be removed, or the bike pushed in back wheel first if you are going to remove the front wheel.