Triumphrat

Klicker · 01-14-2006

On my 76 T140v my turn signals work fine until I turn on my headlight. The headlight has been changed to a H4 halogen 60/55w. Then the turn signals flash slowly and dimly. Any ideas on what could be the problem would help.

TRI-AL · 01-15-2006

I'm no electrical guru but I'd start traceing the wireing. However, before that, how's the condition of the battery? If it's weak, it may be the culprit. Just my guess and I'm stickin' to it!

01-15-2006

I have the same bike and face the same problem. I looked at fixing it a while ago.
Even with a good battery that is fully charged you will discover that this problem occurs especially when driving around town (low RPM's). The problem is simply that the original alternators do not put out enough juice. Keep in mind that these alternators were not originally designed for daytime headlights and turn signals. With continuous highway driving, you probably noticed that the problem is less acute but then you are less likely to need turn signals, right? Your situation will depend on several factors such as the condition of the wiring harness, grounding and especially the original Lucas switches which are notorious for corroding. Clean ‘em up and coat the contacts with dielectric grease.
Three phase (higher output) alternators are available but that means changing the rectifier etc. This is costly but your problem is gone. Replacing just the rectifier for a new style rectifier that is more efficient is another option but probably won't make the problem go away. The cheapest fix is to convert to LED lights for brake/tail and turn signal. Doing so will reduce the overall current load. There is little point in repeating several threads on this site on the benefits of LED lights.
As a small note of caution, please remember that you will still have a low output alternator and at best you are only minimizing a design shortcoming.
Good luck!

Slinky · 01-15-2006

When I had my T140 I never had any problems keeping the battery charged, and I ran a 60/55 H4 in it.

I did get through several flasher relays, they did not seem to last long.

I too would be inclined to look at the condition of the battery. If it is holding less than 12 volts then the alternator may not be putting out enough power at low revs to power everything.

hobbit · 01-15-2006

Same problem; new wiring harness, new battery, 180w alternator, solid state voltage regulator, checked all the earths . . . there's just not quite enough juice to spend everyday driving around town with lights on . . . off to get some LEDs for tail & indicators this week, see if that helps.

Klicker · 01-15-2006

Is there aplace tobuy led lights to fit in the turn singles and taillight. Rod

Slinky · 01-16-2006

If you fit LED indicator bulbs there will not be enough load in the circuit to make them flash correctly. You would also have to fit a different flasher relay, or fit inline resistors.

Klicker · 01-16-2006

I just found a suppler of auto LED bulbs for turn singles and brake lights that fit the regular sockets. Would this work or should i change every thing. Rod

TRI-AL · 01-17-2006

The original electrical systems on these things were never that good to begin with. I've replaced my stator & magnet (alternator) which helped. I keep the battery on a charger when not in use. Replaced the rectifier with a POD and still, when I pull up to a car and have the headlight & turnsignal on, I can see the headlight "flicker" with each blink of the turn signal! NOT a strong electrical system by any means! That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!

okiecityflash · 01-17-2006

I got a question to sneek in here if possible. If my batt is hot ,12.5 volts and I'm trying to check my alternator output, with a good multimeter and it doesn't reach 13v at 2500 rpm ,is the alt. not charging or is it dumping the charge. On the signal light question, I bought some cheap plastic turn signals ($15 ea. ) , and they were not worth it. Didn't hold up. I'm running a auto flasher now, but it flashes slow with a hot battery. Good luck :???: