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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 11-29-2012, 04:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Engine Assembly

Used a narrow bead of Loktite on the base gasket (both sides). Allows plenty of time since only cures when block nipped up.

Piston(s) holder and ring compressors from UK. Worth their weight in gold!
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Engine Assembly-034.jpg   Engine Assembly-035.jpg   Engine Assembly-037.jpg  
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quick thought, looks like your studs are in upside down. Tappered end normally goes into the cylinder. Others can correct me if I'm mistaken, but think many also reccomend installing a ball under each to prevent distortion.
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It's a worthwhile modification to fit those studs with the turned end down and the 1/4" ball under each stud.Only tighten the stud very lightly onto the ball.
It reduces head face and cylinder bore distortion.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Head Studs

Thanks Guy's

will take your advice and do as suggested. I took the barrels to the machinest with studs in as I did not have a stud remover but, I would be very surprised if he removed them and then replaced them in a differrent way. So can only surmise they have been like that for some time.
I shall put the new set in I have sitting under the bench, from Tri-Cor. Almost forgot I had them!
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Studs (again)

Have just found the Tri -Cor cylinder head bolt/stud set (P/N-RS 055)

The four large studs have a taper one end, the other ends have been milled as mine are in the photo above, theses ends also have a longer screw thread

The two shorter studs have both ends milled with one end also having a longer thread than the other.

I guess it is determining which thread goes where. The barrels above have the short end thread, that is the tapered end screwed in.
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Old 11-29-2012, 04:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The way your studs are facing in your photo are likely the way they were originally installed. If your machinist didnít remove them before doing his work, then Iíd leave them alone. Anytime head studs are removed and replaced, there is a chance of distorting the cylinders and faces.

If you do take them out, replace them in the opposite direction after dropping a small ball bearing into each hole first. Iíve never done it that way yet but some one here made a good point awhile back about how doing it that way can help eliminate any distortion when re-assembling.
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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So, what size ball are we talking here. Minor OD of thread, 1/8", 1/16"??

Sorry, missed the 1/4" in Mr. Pete's post.

regards,
Rob

Last edited by Snakeoil; 11-29-2012 at 11:33 PM.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If you drop a ball down the hole then screw the stud in, doesn't the stud end up higher than before, by the diameter of the ball? Does this not matter? Also, if the studs are only lightly screwed in, don't they tend to unscrew with the nuts next time you undo them?
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Ball & Studs

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnA View Post
If you drop a ball down the hole then screw the stud in, doesn't the stud end up higher than before, by the diameter of the ball? Does this not matter? Also, if the studs are only lightly screwed in, don't they tend to unscrew with the nuts next time you undo them?
Have just returned from the Machinest who is setting up the cam timing. He explained to Me about the use of the balls and that the studs should be put in until 'finger tight'. As he further explained I can now see the rational for this. When torquing up the head no torque is being registered from the studs tightening against their base, it is all from the top end, just like the bolts.

He removed the old studs as I watched, very little pressure was exerted on the remover, which he said was a very good thing!
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Here is a link from my references regarding this subject.

http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbth...169#Post411169

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