Not really sure I want to wade into this one, but what the heck.....
Your specs for bore diameter are largely to ensure proper clearance for the piston to expand, as they will do so at a different rate than the cylinder itself. The rings primary purpose is to allow this to happen while containing the combustion gasses effectively on one side, and oil on the other. Unless it is a 2 stroke, the rings rotate freely within the bore. They put a pin in 2T pistons to prevent ring rotation so the ends do not get caught and broken on a port.
Specs are setup to compensate for expansion/contraction, avoidance of piston slap, proper ring spring tension among other factors. Modern materials and forging instead of casting allow for tighter tolerances, which is something to consider when you are replacing components. Original bore specs may be too loose for a modern forged piston to avoid psiton slap and other related issues.
Ring gap is measured to give you an idea of ring/cylinder bore wear and fit. You can also consider ring width and thickness if specs are available and factor this in. Primary thing you are checking with end gap is tension of the rings against the cylinder walls. You can have a great end gap clearance, but rings worn across thier width or to thin, you end up with a terrible seal anyway.
If you checked compression and it was solid, and you have not removed the psitons/rings you can easily put it back together without bothering to hone it and you should be in good shape. The rings will quickly find thier groove once more and down the road you go.
If you have remove the psitons, hopefully you have marked which side was which to ensure they go back into original bores. Early piston sizes were nowhere near the "exact science" they are today. This was why early engine builders "blueprinted" engines by measuring all components specs and creating the ideal match on each component. This would rarely have been done (if it was even considered) on a production level. This was how you ended up with "A" and "B" graded pistons for example.
If the rings have been removed, the ring lands need a thorough cleaning, and I would go ahead and consider new rings based upon end gap and overall condition of the rings themselves. Is the evidence of blowby, carbon buildup in a land, a hung ring? If you are going to install new rings it is important to remove the glaze from the cylinder walls, and it won't hurt to recreate the crosshatch pattern while doing so. There are many methods, but the best for a quick once over is probably a bead hone. I would avoid wire wheels as much to avoid the small bits and pieces from contaminating the bore more than from worry due to an uneven surface.
Ideally, if you are reusing the old components, pistons/rings need to go back into thier original bores. If dissasembly and cleaning has taken place, I would go ahead and run a bead hone through it. Additionally, replace the piston pin clips while you are at it, as these can easily be marginal after being removed.
If you are to far out of spec, go ahead and get a new set pistons/rings and have your cylinders machined accordingly.
OK, you can all take aim now.....