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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 11-26-2012, 11:02 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I think what Mntnbrk is sayinig is when using a click type torque wrench towards the bottom of the wrench's scale, be careful. I would tend to agree. I have a Snap-on dial face 3/8" drive in inch-lbs, another name brand 1/4" drive with the old deflecting pointer and scale in in-lbs, and was military surplus in addition to my click-type. I always use the smallest wrench so I'm working in the mid to upper range of the tool. I never use my 1/2" drive click-type in the lower ranges. It has way too long a lever and it is very easy to over-torque small bolts.

The first time I ever worked on jet engine after working on HD turbines for years, I was tightening 1/4-28 casing flange bolts and the lead tech told me to use a torque wrench. I told him I was just snugging them up and would around again with the torque wrench. He chuckled and said I'd probably over torqued most of them already. I did not believe him until I put the torque wrench on them. He was right.

regards,
Rob
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Old 11-26-2012, 12:09 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Yeah, I am like that! I used to go around flanges tightening M16 bolts up with spanners. I'd then click them and they would be already to 140Nm or whatever the spec is!

On the bike I'll be doing it all by gradual torquing.

Yeah, fair enough, I must have misunderstood before! Making sure you are working at the mid-high range of the wrench is the best idea. As I say, mine is proper tiny. It has a 1/2" drive on it but the ratchet head is about the same size as the drive and the handle is only about 10" long. Lovely little thing!
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:08 AM   #23 (permalink)
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being at the mid to top end of any measurement device is the safest bet.

Any small error in the calibration would probably be magnified in the lower ranges
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