Triumphrat

Morris the Cat

20 + years ago, replaced the oil pump due to an oil change problem!

With the timing cover off, needed to seal the cover back on.

A friend had given me a tube of GM sealer for auto transmissions.

This red sealer was used here and elsewhere and is still on the cover.

If you need to remove the unit, it will shear off with some light tapping laterally on the cover.

Once the cover is off, the sealant will peel straight off with almost no resistance, this being observed from being used elsewhere than my timing cover.

It peels off almost like silly-putty, no residue left over.

The question here is whether Loctite 518 is a similar product to the unknown GM?

Would like to use it for the primary chaincase cover, in lieu of a gasket, as have had this cover off more than a few times.

The chaincase cover has two locating dowels that would prevent shock/shearing the bond to break using the wrong sealer?

The chain cover is still leaking primary oil even after a new, thicker gasket installed.

The drain screw and the chain tensioner screw seem to be leaking for lack of the correct fibre washers?

Have tried everything under the sun to rectify the leaking , it's not gearbox oil- that problem was fixed.

Would like to duplicate that magic GM sealer that's easily un-done, any help appreciated!

__________________

Morris of Main Street

lovecuba

I have just been going down the same path. This involved asking the two recognised Triumph engine specialists in Christchurch (one a machinest, the other a mechanic) what product they would recommend for sealing up the crankcase halves. Both suggested I use a product made by Valco (Cincinnati). It is called All in One, Aluminium Premium RTV Sillicone Gasket Maker/Sealer.
To date, given the amount of engine work they have both undertaken on British Motorcycles and all the various sealers they have tried over the years, Valco is the one they use.

Redmoggy

I put my chain cover back on a few weeks ago woith just 518, sealed up lovely!
Rod

loxx101

Personally, my favourite is using a gasket coated in a light smear of Hylomar Blue. It also does work well as a thin sealant and is non setting and cleaner looking that the other stuff.

TBS

The main reason for getting leaks is that the face of the timing cover/chaincase/gearbox cover isn't flat. Spend a good 15 minutes on a large piece of glass with 80 grit sheets of wet and dry stuck together. You will be amazed at how warped they are.

loxx101

Yeah, definitely this! Another option is a granite surface table/plate. They are surprisingly cheap and more versatile.

DAVE M

a mate used a piece of plate glass with valve grinding paste

I'll allow others to confirm, but the glass is supposed to be tougherrthan the aluminium -so the metal flattens rather than the glass.

Figure of 8 pattern to avoid uneven wear

Old Cafe Racer

Grinding paste will cut both the glass and the alloy, much better to use a sheet of plate glass and a sheet of wet and dry taped down along the edges.

.

Mr.Pete

I'd agree with O.C.R.
The abrasive will embed itself in the soft aluminium,and then attack the glass.

The glass is good for checking.If there's 0.010" to come off,I'd start with a file and later use emery paper.A flat surface helps,and should seal OK with a gasket.

Loctite 510,515 or 518 will work.518 is intended more for iron/steel surfaces;Loctite primer would help.
For threaded parts or even sealing washers,Loctite 567 works well.

loxx101

Just so long as you use a figure of 8 pattern it'll be better than doing nothing. It's best to use a lapping table ideally but each step up to that is better than the last!