Triumphrat

Beemie

Thanks all. This thing has been kicking my butt for a couple seasons now.

Here comes winter again (tomorrow) and maybe the head will finally get pulled this season to clean the carbon out and freshen it up. Maybe another clue will show up there.

Snakeoil

When Mr. Pete said to check the pilot jet, from your reply I did not get the feeling you truly understood which jet he meant. It is not one of the jets accessible thru the float bowl. Please excuse me if you did understand which jet. I in no way mean to talk down to you. Just making sure.

I found the picture on line and think it is the best I've seen to explain the pilot jet and help understand how it could get plugged and no amount of soaking or spraying will open it back up, something I learned here on this site, probably from Mr. Pete.

The pilot jet is the tiny little brass insert to the left of the air screw and to the immediate left of that tiny pocket in the center of the airway.



regards,
Rob

Beemie

Thanks for the picture Rob.
I did know where the the pilot jet is but never had to physically clean them before.
It would have been nice to have the pass through blanking plugs like your picture shows.

I imagine it's as cold there right now as it is here. Kicking over that 20W50 in this weather is a long lost hope.

Morris the Cat

Do you guys notice pistonslap noise when firing up these old clunkers?

Drove mine today at about 50+ degrees and feathered out the warm-up to stop this noise.

From what have heard, this is a common problem with the T140 series?

Didn't stop me from riding on a nice sunny day, looking for a ignition switch substitute for my worn out one. .

?

__________________

Morris of Main Street

Beemie

Got a break in the weather so I got to test for manifold leaks.
That doesn't seem to be it, atleast there was no change in attitude when spraying WD40 all over the joints.

Just to be sure, new Champions installed with no change.

I managed to find some #78 bits to try to clean out the pilot jets, but I think it's going to be an interesting puzzle to find something to hold a bit that size. Haven't attempted that yet.

There are a couple more clues though.
The problem is definitely in the closed to part throttle range.

Also, an instant read thermometer touched on the head pipes shows the suspect cylinder to be running cooler (not cold) during warm up idle, 50 degrees to start but 75 to 100 degrees as the engine warms. There's a slight yellowing on the top of the suspect side headpipe now too.





Morris,
Old Clunker, heh?
I resemble that remark and there are some parts that have worn in a bit.

Snakeoil

#78 drill is just a tad larger than 1/64" in case you can't find a #78.

The best way to hold them is with a pin-vise. But not everyone has one. If you have an Exacto knife, you can probably put the bit where the blade goes and tighten it enough to hold the bit. Another possible method would be a small straight Kelly clamp (roach clip for those old enough to remember the 60's and have a girlfriend in nursing school). You can buy them in places that sell fishing gear. I've also seen them sold at gun shows in various sizes. I have them in all sizes because they are truly handy.

regards,
Rob

Beemie

Thanks Rob,

Roach clips sold at gun shows....now that's something I hoped to not have to think about.
Seeing fresh Bud cans on our daily forest walks this time of year was troubling enough.

Mr.Pete

Take the nozzle tube from a WD-40 can,and glue the drill-bit into it.

Beemie

Thanks Mr Pete.