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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 11-18-2012, 09:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cams again (Again)

Have just discovered that the machinest who undertook the work on the cams is an expert at setting up engine camshafts in situ. As I do not have a dial gauge (or know how to read one) the decision has been made to 'farm' out the camshaft timing to Him. Get it right first time!
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:59 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Probably not a bad idea to get it bang on!

Precision equipment is fairly easy to use to be fair. DTIs aren't very cheap though. Takes a bit of time to get your head 'round I reckon if you're not experienced with such things.

Getting all my engine bits back today so should be doing a degree setup within the next week!
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The best starting point would be to make new timing marks 17 teeth counter-clockwise on the camwheels from the original standard marks.Make sure you can distinguish them from the standard marks.

Use the keyways closest to the new marks.That will advance both cams 4.8 crankshaft degrees,when you time it to the new mark.Chances are that will be as good as it gets.

Norman Hyde advertises these cams as "full-race",and his suggested timing is measured as valve lift at TDC.
INTAKE valve gross lift :0.195"-0.210" (approx 0.180" tappet lift)
EXHAUST valve gross lift :0.175"-0.190" (approx 0.162" tappet lift)

If anything,you could advance the exhaust slightly on a touring bike,to get better response at non-race speeds.One full tooth error will change the TDC tappet lift approx 0.050".You can adjust it in 1/3 tooth increments,using different keyways and new timing marks.
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