A little bit of advice as to how to get these out. - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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A little bit of advice as to how to get these out.

Hello all,

Hope you're well. I have started taking apart my TR25w for the winter, I am taking the time to try and figure out how everything works with the added incentive of cleaning all of the parts and polishing the engine covers.

I haven't touched these screws yet and would love any help or advice as to how to get them out, I am really nervous about them, they seem to be very soft.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 05:23 PM
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Hand held impact driver and a dead blow mallet. Make sure you use the right bit such that it fits the screw well.

Harbor Freight sells them. I have a couple of theirs. Bits are a little fragile as they are glass hard. But, their stuff is guaranteed for life so just bring it back if you break a bit and they'll give you a new one.

regards,
Rob
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 05:46 PM
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If the impact driver doen't work I have always had good luck with left handed drill bits. Is there any way to go to allen screws?
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 07:03 PM
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The correct bit is a posi-driv .
With the right one,take a plastic head shock hammer and sharply tap thru the screwdriver to loosen the threads.

Looks like a standard phillips head bit isn't

Mine were changed over to allen type fittings.


http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2880/9419068358_fe3bbd6508_t.jpg
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for that, I will be looking into the allen ones after these are out, I'm sure they're much less frightening
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 03:33 AM
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+1 on the Pozidrive bits. They make a huge difference when removing those screws. Do not try a Phillips! They are designed to not grip as well and tend to damage the screw making it more difficult to remove.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 07:54 AM
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You can do both - you can get the pozidriv bits:

Amazon Amazon

...and use them in the impact driver:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...1&blockType=G1
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...set-93481.html

I'm a big fan of the impact drivers, and have removed case screws the heads of which otherwise seemed mostly stripped from sloppy screwdrivering. It's a good second step between the regular screwdriver or bit socket in a ratchet, before you go to the drill bits.

They're definitely great tools (in the cost/usefulness ratio) to have around either way.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 08:00 AM
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After they are all out, it woulld be a good time to carefully retap the threaded holes...buy a tap handle and a bottom tap and go slowly...investing in a small bottle of tapping fluid will make it easy...clean out often. Socket head cap screws are available in chrome or stainless to finish off for looks as well.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 10:04 AM
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Personally, I'm not a big fan of retapping holes in aluminum unless there is no other choice. Here is what I do.

1. Clean the tapped holes with carb cleaner or brake clean. Put the little straw nozzle in the hole and blast it clean. Then blow it out with compressed air.

2. Visually inspect the holes. If some are still dirty, go at it again.

3. Take a screw that has good threads but will not be reused, and cut an axial slot with a hacksaw blade down the side. DO NOT split the screw. Clean off the burrs.

4. Run the screw into the hole with your fingers. The slot will provide a place for crud to go rather than being swaged deeper into the thread the same way the relief slots on a tap provide a place for the metal chips to go.

5. As you are running the screw in, if you hit a hard spot, give the screw a light tap with a small ball peen hammer. This will move any displaced thread material back into place. The screw should continue to turn by hand after the tap. You may be wise to back the screw out after going half way and blowing any crud out of the slot before running it all the way to the bottom.

This procedure should maintain as much original thread material as possible and still clean up and reform your threads for the reassembly process.

If you buy a tapping fluid to use with your screw, or if you have to retap a hole, be aware that some tapping fluids will react with aluminum and destroy the thread. I'm going back into my memory banks here, but I believe Tap-Free is one that works great on stainless, but will destroy aluminum.

regards,
Rob
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 11:19 AM
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tap free is good, or just a drop of kerosene...I advocate tapping with a the correct tap will do less harm than using a split bolt..it will not take out anything but excess dirt or clear up a stretched or distorted thread.

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