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post #41 of 91 (permalink) Old 11-14-2012, 11:23 PM
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p.s., I've always used Mobil 1, 10 40.
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post #42 of 91 (permalink) Old 11-15-2012, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by nametzj View Post
I forgot to mention, all we're wet clutches; I hate the dry ones. My wife hadda 900 monster and that dry , noisy, grabby dry job of a clutch was one of least nicer things about it.
That one is an easy fix.. and I use the trick on my BNR dry clutch in the Daytona as well, smooth as silk.
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post #43 of 91 (permalink) Old 11-15-2012, 09:36 AM
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Any 0/40 oil will kill a bike,I have been using Amsoil 20-50 for over thirty years never had a problem five Harlies, Triumph Trophy 1200 sweet but to fast! Put 168,000K on a Rod King, still within specs when sold, comp that is
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post #44 of 91 (permalink) Old 11-15-2012, 04:42 PM
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motorcycle specific oil

First, Barenekd is right.

Second, check your manual - first and foremost.

The simple answer to this is that 4-stroke motorcycle specific oil, and car oil, are definitely different (critically, different)

4 Stroke bike oil is designed to provide the proper frictional characteristics necessary for wet-clutch engine/transmission systems.

If you have a dry clutch, then check your owner's manual.

I run Mobil 1 racing 4T in my tiger but i am not necessarily partial to it. I am sure there are cheaper oils that are just as good.

Here is the link to the Amsoil test but I'd take it with a grain of salt. This is an oil manufacturer, supposedly, doing an unbiased test on...motorycle oil and what do you know, they come out on top.

But I give them credit for showing Mobil 1 coming in as a tie.

Originally Posted by barenekd View Post
Synthetic oil is fine in motorcycles, however automotive synthetics aren't. DO NOT USE AUTOMOBILE OIL IN A MOTORCYCLE. Car oils contain anti friction additives that will kill motorcycle clutches and bearings. Some of you posters seem to have found out this the hard way. The auto oil is too thin for motorcycle use,too. They thin down the oil and change clearances and materials so the oil will work in them. The whole point is to get better mileage buy reducing internal drag.
Synthetic motorcycle oil does contain many of the same additives that car oils do, like zinc, molybdenum disulphide and a bunch of others.
If you want to run Mobil 1 Synthetic in your T160, I'd recommend their 20W-50 V-Twin stuff. It's made for air cooled motorcycles. I use it in my Royal Enfield.
If you really want to know a lot about motorcycle oils, Amsoil did a comparison test on a bunch of oils, and showed the contents of each brand and wear comparisons on each. It's a complete detailing of oils and a good thing to have in the memory box. Unfortunately, I can't find my link to it, but I should think a search for Amsoil oil Comparisons or Tests should bring it up.
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post #45 of 91 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 02:51 AM
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This is becoming a typical oil thread
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post #46 of 91 (permalink) Old 11-17-2012, 12:24 PM
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When I first saw this thread I said to myself, "Oh-ohhhh... oil thread."

So with no action for a day or two I ventured in and sure enough, first post I see, which is the last post, is Dean's.

That said, I'll share my recently oil learnin' experience here and add to the confusion.

I recently aquired a 1939 Indian 439. As most will know, this is a very valuable bike. I know very little about these and am in the middle of the learning process. The guys who play with real vintage machines (not the slightly long in the tooth tarts that we discuss here) have more legends, rumors, theories, superstitions and other mumbo-jumbo about oil than all of us here, combined. So, rather than sort thru all the BS, I decided to take it to the mountain. Fortunately for me, the guy sitting on the mountain is Irv Truax, a recognized Indian 4 expert and rebuilder and the man who rebuilt my engine back in the 90's. Irv said that the general concensus is that the oil to use in that engine is Amsoil racing 20W-50. The Four is a wet sump, wet clutch with clutch plate technology (until recently) by the Flintstones, shares the oil with the tranny and no oil filter. So, probaby the worst scenario for oil. Oil change interval is 500 miles, and that is the original OEM recommendation. I did not discuss this point yet with Irv, but suspect that is due to no filter and the shearing action of the tranny on the oil.

So, that oil is good enough for the Indian Four, it should be more than adequate for our modern Triumph engines. Before somebody starts to argue the roller bearings skidding in the races point, keep in mind that jet engines use synthetic oil. It was originally created by the Germans during WWII for war machines which included aero engines. When jet engines came into being, syn oils were required due to the high engine temps which would cook fossil oils. And all jet engines run on roller bearings.

So, although I would not suggest running it in an engine that has not been rebuilt and thoroughly cleaned because of the risk of dislodging old crud and maybe plugging an oil passage, I would consider running it in a rebuilt engine once it has been broken in.

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post #47 of 91 (permalink) Old 11-17-2012, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by TridentT160 View Post
Since the bikes use a dry clutch, can I run sythetic oil (an automotive synthetic like Mobil 1) in the crankcase for longer life? I know synthetic would be too slippery for bikes with wet clutches.
Hi there.

I don't know the theory, but I can speak from practical experience.

Last year on the Iron Butt Rally, I used Castrol GTX Semi Synthetic in my 1969 T150. I rode in temperatures from near freezing to 120 degrees farenheit, from below sea level to nearly 12,000 feet, covering more miles in 11 days days than some "classics" will in 11 years and the oil worked well.

When we did the first oil change during the ride at just under 6000 miles, we had some of the oil analysed and the general synopsis was that it would have covered a further similar mileage without any major problems

As I say, the theory I cannot speak about, but my experience leads me to suspect that using semi (or even fully) synthetic oil in your T160 will be no problem.


John Young

Last edited by John Young; 11-18-2012 at 01:28 AM.
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post #48 of 91 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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I spoke to a Spectro Oil rep at a dealership open house today, and also someone at a vintage bike shop, and they both said to use non-synthetic oil with a high zinc content. The Spectro guy recommended the Spetro 4 oil; the other guy said Castrol GTX 20W50, as specified in the shop manual, because he claimed it had the highest zinc content of all standard oils.
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post #49 of 91 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 03:57 AM
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With all due respect, reps are salesmen! I used to be a salesman and would tell a customer anything to make it seem genuine. It's all lies!

As I said before, people who say anything bad about synthetics just don't understand oil.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Free App
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post #50 of 91 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 09:59 AM
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been using Amsoil for over 30 years, never a prob, thru AZ,TX etc in july, other bike's shut down with heat snake oil check amsoil web site I think they have a oil for vintage, and you can plumb in a oil filter, for you Indian, not sure how but it has been done
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