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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 11-14-2012, 06:53 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Hi guys, you should NEVER use car oil inyou bike as it contains additives not compatable with bike engines.
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:00 PM   #32 (permalink)
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PS, I have a 2000 Datona 955i and run it on Motul semi synthetic with no problems. 100% synthetic is for racing engines and not needed for road riding.
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:56 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Rotella T oil for my 2005 Thruxton and also T6 Synthetic

Rotella T oil for my 2005 Thruxton and also T6 Synthetic. Both cheaper in price than the crazy expensive other brands like Mobil 1.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T



Motorcycle usage

Though marketed as an engine oil for diesel trucks, Rotella oil has found popularity with motorcyclists as well. The lack of "friction modifiers" in Rotella means they do not interfere with wet clutch operations. (This is called a "shared sump" design, which is unlike automobiles which maintain separate oil reservoirs - one for the engine and one for the transmission). Used oil analysis (UOA) reports on BobIsTheOilGuy.com have shown wear metals levels comparable to oils marketed as motorcycle-specific.

JASO-MA
JASO is an acronym that stands for "The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization." Among other things, they set standards for oil to be used in motorcycles.
Shell Rotella T 15W-40 conventional oil does not list on its packaging JASO MA as one of the specifications it meets. Note that the 10W-30 conventional oil does not list JASO-MA.
The newer fully synthetic T6 5W-40 oil lists JASO-MA compliance on its packaging and on the Rotella website.
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:35 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loxx101 View Post
You can, yes. However, if you haven't had the gaskets off for a while they will probably leak due to the detergent in the oil breaking up the residue from the old oil. This got synthetic oil a bad name because people had badly maintained bikes...

Many people will dispute this but at the end of the day, synthetic literally means it's the pure form of dinosaur oil built in a lab rather than mined. It basically doesn't have the rubbish in it. There are some arguments about Zinc content and stuff with old bikes but I can't personally find any evidence to support this being an actual fact.
LOXX,

You are 100% absolutely correct about Syn being made from Dyno as the feed stock......unless the feed stock used to make the Syn was vegetable oil or natural gas or gasoline. Syn is made from any "hydrocarbon". I suspect that even cane sugar would work. The Germans made gasoline and oils of all types and kerosine from natural gas and coal gas. Krauts(I am one) have no oil wells worth mentioning yet they fought the heck out of WWII.

But the favorite feed stock is Dyno only cause that is plentiful and I have heard that used motor oil is also used but they don't brag on that. I don't have links and quotes to back this up but I am sure enuff to carry the tale.

Thanks,

John
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:53 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bferrari View Post
Rotella T oil for my 2005 Thruxton and also T6 Synthetic. Both cheaper in price than the crazy expensive other brands like Mobil 1.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T

Motorcycle usage

Though marketed as an engine oil for diesel trucks, Rotella oil has found popularity with motorcyclists as well. The lack of "friction modifiers" in Rotella means they do not interfere with wet clutch operations. (This is called a "shared sump" design, which is unlike automobiles which maintain separate oil reservoirs - one for the engine and one for the transmission). Used oil analysis (UOA) reports on BobIsTheOilGuy.com have shown wear metals levels comparable to oils marketed as motorcycle-specific.

JASO-MA
JASO is an acronym that stands for "The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization." Among other things, they set standards for oil to be used in motorcycles.
Shell Rotella T 15W-40 conventional oil does not list on its packaging JASO MA as one of the specifications it meets. Note that the 10W-30 conventional oil does not list JASO-MA.
The newer fully synthetic T6 5W-40 oil lists JASO-MA compliance on its packaging and on the Rotella website.
+1 on using Rotella T6. In the past, I used Mobil 4T in my '00 Triumph Sprint ST and logged over 30k miles without any leakage, clutch slippage, oil consumption, or mechanical problems. Marketed by Mobil for high performance motorcycles, supposedly it's the same as the more expensive "Triumph Racing Oil" hawked in Triumph dealerships. For modern air-cooled bikes such as Harleys and Buells, Mobil recommends their V-Twin synthetic, which should be suitable for current air-cooled Triumph twins as well.

Back to Rotella T6. I just bought a low mileage (7k miles) '07 Sprint ST 1050 and immediately filled her with Rotella T6 based on a friend's recommendation. Skeptical at first, and concerned about the lower 5W viscosity, I was swayed when told he'd logged over 38k miles on his Rotella-fed Sprint RS without a single problem - no clutch slippage, no oil consumption, no oil leakage, no mechanical issues of any type, nada. Says the old bike runs as good as the day he bought it. Pretty compelling Rotella argument.
__________________
Doug

Last edited by oldgeezer; 11-15-2012 at 12:09 AM.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:33 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Running decent quality oil in any motor is definitely the best insurance policy you'll ever buy. I was a "Cazzy R" racer back when, and if anybody wants to argue about R's lubrication qualities, you must have a screw loose!! It does however leave a lot more internal cylinder deposits than any Synthetic oils, and that's important on 2 strokes. This requires a lot more diligence in regular maintenance - a true fact.
Most of my racing experiences have been with either motors with separate primary drives, or dry clutches, where I would use a different oil for a wet clutch and I was pretty reluctant to believe Synthetics were the 'way to go'. After experiencing using a 100-1 premix situation on Trials bikes (both modern and Classic) using Synthetic oils, I became pretty interested in why it works.
In simple layman's terms -- try frying an egg in petroleum based oil, then do the same with a good quality synthetic ---- I'd eat the synthetic one first!!
There have already been a few scientific facts bandied here, that only cloud the issue of what oil to use in certain conditions, so -- here's my humble recommendation.
Back in 'the day', a lot of engines used 'communal' oil for both lubrication for the crank/cams/top end, as well as the clutch/primary, and I always considered it was that way for 'job security' for the factories, as when the clutch plates shed both friction and steel bits, it all found it's way through the oil pump -- and ultimately the rest of the engine. Those guys were pretty sneaky!! Many wet clutch bikes still use the same system, although materials and OILS have come a long way, and the attrition is definitely not anywhere as bad as it used to be, it's still an area where regular oil changes -- no matter what oil you are using are necessary to keep your engine in top form as long as possible.
IF - a modern manufacturer stipulates a certain oil --- DON'T argue.
IF you have been running the bike on petroleum based oil for any length of time (thousands of miles) -- keep using the same oil until you need to rebuild the engine.
Reasoning here is from my own findings, that seals get 'conditioned' to the oil they were 'born in', and if you change from petroleum based to synthetic after major mileage - expect problems with leaks.
I've seen it happen a few more times than it takes for a 'fluke' to rear it's head!!
My race bikes are fired up with petroleum based oils -- just to get ring seat, and immediately live on Synthetics -- usually Catrol Syntech -- a great oil - as expensive as it is!!
All the modern wet clutch bikes I deal with, I stipulate Mobil 1 4T 10w40, which is fully synthetic and has no silly "friction modifiers" or whatever nonsense most Synthetic oils blart about.
I spent some time under the tutelage of a friend that worked in the oil business for a long number of years, raced (reasonably successfully) for a good few years, and heard all sorts of "Old Wives Tales".
Bottom line --- Don't short-change your motor with cheap oil.
If it is happy where it is -- why change?
Ride it hard - and put it away dry!!
Cheers,
Brid.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:21 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Being Pedantic (again)

British Bikes= British oils

www.morrislubricants.co.uk
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:25 PM   #38 (permalink)
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I have Mobil 1 20/50 in every cycle since they started selling it. Not MC specific. I have never had clutch slip, but then none of the 30 or more bikes had over 110 hp advertised.

I would not consider using the super low (<10/XX) in any motor I wanna keep. No science here, but I have always wondered if that was an mpg thing, not a best product for the motor.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:47 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I forgot to mention, all we're wet clutches; I hate the dry ones. My wife hadda 900 monster and that dry , noisy, grabby dry job of a clutch was one of least nicer things about it.
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:20 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I restored a rusty, corroded and dented '98 Adventurer from the Florida coast. After about five years, off and on... I got it back to very acceptable appearance. Fixed lots of things but basically left the engine alone other than adjusting valves. They bike shop that bought it from its derelict original owner had said it had good compression etc. before I bought it. Well, not knowing any better, I used synthetic oil in it. Low and behold, it fired right up. Has been running w/o complaint for about three years now. No clutch slippage. Just runs... very decently. In the basement now for some R&R... carbs leaking some so I have a little winter project.
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