Triumphrat

loxx101

But monograde is used literally for one temperature. It's best to use a multigrade suited for your country/area. Most of the time the manufacturer will specify a grade that'll probably be the same for all/most countries anyway as the difference wouldn't be that vast I don't reckon.

Synthetics are cleaner so leave less deposits and the detergents are better. That's why using synthetic wouid leak more. It doesn't have crap in it that's going to clog the holes so it never does.

DAVE M

I run straight oil in my Cubs as that's what the design calls for. Multigrade froths and doesn't seem to like the bike.

My T140 was designed for Multigrade, so that's what I use.

ARTY

I am currently using Millers Clasic 20 / 50 oil in my T140E

barenekd

Synthetic oil is fine in motorcycles, however automotive synthetics aren't. DO NOT USE AUTOMOBILE OIL IN A MOTORCYCLE. Car oils contain anti friction additives that will kill motorcycle clutches and bearings. Some of you posters seem to have found out this the hard way. The auto oil is too thin for motorcycle use,too. They thin down the oil and change clearances and materials so the oil will work in them. The whole point is to get better mileage buy reducing internal drag.
Synthetic motorcycle oil does contain many of the same additives that car oils do, like zinc, molybdenum disulphide and a bunch of others.
If you want to run Mobil 1 Synthetic in your T160, I'd recommend their 20W-50 V-Twin stuff. It's made for air cooled motorcycles. I use it in my Royal Enfield.
If you really want to know a lot about motorcycle oils, Amsoil did a comparison test on a bunch of oils, and showed the contents of each brand and wear comparisons on each. It's a complete detailing of oils and a good thing to have in the memory box. Unfortunately, I can't find my link to it, but I should think a search for Amsoil oil Comparisons or Tests should bring it up.
Bare

DrDesmo

I've seen that test and it is excellent.
Norton recommended 20W-50 for one year and then went back to straight 50W. I used Kendall in those days.
I've used a proprietary oil called LE in my Trophy 1200 and Daytona 1200 and had no trouble. I used the proper viscosity too.

ChrisonTop

I guess I do not understand the issue here!
My Triumph Owner's Handbook for my 2007 America Twin specifically recommends using Mobil 1 Racing 4T fully synthetic and so far as I understand it has a wet clutch.

M/W

I've used nothing but synthetic in my `09 Street 3R, first Mobil 1 and Amsoil. No leaks but it used a little oil with both. Since then I've been using Motul 5100 with no significant decrease in oil level and it seems to stay clean. I'm very pleased with it. I get it from Motorcycle Superstore.

Travlr_45

I've got a 2010 tiger 1050 that came brand new from e dealership with Mobil 1 10W40 4T racing oil. 16K miles later that's all the bike has ever had in it. Absolutely no issues to date. As for weight, consider the thicker the oil the more difficult it is for that oil to get into all the little nooks and crannies inside the engine. My 2 pennies worth

rodhotter

oil-oil-oil, first real synthetics are manufactured from esters etc, most synthetics since castrol won the right to call highly refined dino synthetic in the USA is not. amsoil motorcycle oils are a real synthetic, and is excellent, fine for wet clutches as well as roller bearings, the bull harley cried before they endorced their overpriced fake synthetic screamin chicken oi,l a little leakage is less important than the best lubricants, especially hot running air-cooled bikes. those running straight outdated heavy dino oil are starving their engines of oil when cold. lots of info out there just grab a beer, search and read!!!

Mr.Pete

Neither Mobil V-TWIN 20w50,nor Mobil 4T have the friction modifiers that are in other synthetics.
Both these motorcycle oils are suitable with a wet clutch.A Meriden Triumph should be using the 20w50.