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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 11-11-2012, 03:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loxx101 View Post
Thing is, bearings aren't designed with a specific oil in mind like that. The bearings we use on our bikes will be used in masses of applications. I'd be stunned if it was due to the oil.

Do you still have the bearing? If so, whack some pics of the outer race and the rollers!

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Threw the bearing away.The rollers looked perfect but the outer race was looking like someone had run an angle grinder around it.Nice even scoring looking like the rollers had been making metal to metal contact.Possibly,the oil was too thin so no wedge of oil was pushed along in front of the rollers.
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Since my very first BSA A10 when I was still a teenager, in all the classic bikes I have owned I have always used SAE 40W monograde mineral engine oil. I continue this tradition with my BMW R100CS. No problems in the first 40 years...

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Old 11-11-2012, 06:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rambo View Post
It was 0/40 car oil.I find its great in my car engine.Only thing i can think is the oil was so slippery,the rollers did not turn.There was no damage anywhere else but the roller bearing.All ball bearing and plain bearings were un marked.
The biggest advantage of the other synths i have used is the easy starting and nice tickover
Doesn't matter if your running synthetic or mineral, you should be running the correct weight oil.
20/50 is correct and you were running 0/40.
No wonder you had problems especially in cold temperatures where that oil is water thin.

.
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:55 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Is there a preferred brand of 20W/50 mineral oil I should use?
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:23 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I use Silkolene and Morris
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:14 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Use the best quality you can find.Oil is cheap and metal is expensive
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:15 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Dave,you going to the NEC next week.I am there Saturday meeting a few old farts
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:47 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Honestly, as I said before, synthetic oil is literally lab built, not mined. There is no logical reason it wouldn't work. Additives may well make a difference but the base oil is JUST better.

People never have problems with synthetic after a rebuild or in new engines. If you use the correct grade, it's just cleaner oil, that's all. It does have detergents added too which just keeps it cleaner. No more sludge trap blocking up! Keeps all oilways clear etc. This is the thing, it'll best to start using synthetic after a rebuild ideally as it'll break up all the rubbish in your system already. People generally get problems from using synthetic because they don't understand what it is or how it works.

It's worth noting as well that UK sold Synthetic is genuine lab built. USA made MIGHT be lab built but it could easily be filtered stuff from a mine. They do filter it more than older oils so it's still the best you can get. European law is stricter on how the branding of oils work. Probably makes no difference to be fair, I imagine the difference is negligible.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:20 AM   #19 (permalink)
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on the Alfa Romeo bulletin board, people tell stories of trying synthetic, the most complaints are extreme leaks with synthetic. all alfa engines leak a little, but synthetic makes them leak more. I use 20w50 castrol gtx in mine and it wasnt leaking very much. I just rebuilt the engine completely, and at 87 thousand miles, there was no measurable wear on the crank.
I use the recomended synthetic for my bonnieville, and there has been no problem for 28 thousand miles.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:46 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by loxx101 View Post
People never have problems with synthetic after a rebuild or in new engines. If you use the correct grade, it's just cleaner oil, that's all. It does have detergents added too which just keeps it cleaner. No more sludge trap blocking up! Keeps all oilways clear etc. This is the thing, it'll best to start using synthetic after a rebuild ideally as it'll break up all the rubbish in your system already. People generally get problems from using synthetic because they don't understand what it is or how it works.
Mineral oils have also had detergents added since the 1960s. IMHO, modern monograde mineral oil is ideal for classic engines. Check out the following link to Miller Classic oils: http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automot...engine-oil.asp

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