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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-04-2012, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Well it was the top two that snapped off. The bottom one I got out so there is a tiny hole. I'll just put the new plate on about 1mm below the original holes, located using the bottom one.

Can't wait to see it all powder coated!
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-05-2012, 03:45 AM
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Just get some fine wire cutters, bite into the end of the rivets and they unscrew very easily.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-05-2012, 10:12 AM
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Small needle nose vise grips but before you do anything, grind the tip flat. Just dress the very end with your grinder and it will be flat enough to get a good grip.

Worked for me

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 02:24 AM
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Once you get these rivets or screw nails out, what do you replace them with? Where can you get new ones and what are they called?
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 03:49 AM
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The rivets come with the new plates, I got mine from B.J.Bikes & Bits in Brisbane.

davy
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-14-2012, 10:20 AM
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And if the old holes are OK, you just tap them in?
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-14-2012, 01:11 PM
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I always try prying up the plate, just to one side of the rivets, sometimes they'll twist themselves right out. If not, the plate tears away, then you give 'em a go with precision nosed pliers.

Check the backside of the timing cover to see where you have the most "meat" to play with for drilling slightly offset holes.

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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-14-2012, 06:11 PM
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I broke one of the rivets. I measured the depth of one of the remaining holes and determined that I could drive the broken rivet in to the bottom of the hole and have enough remaining depth for the new rivet. Sure enough it worked. It was easier than drilling three new holes and if it failed for some reason I could still drill the new holes.
My $0.02
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-15-2012, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FASTLIKEJUDY View Post
I broke one of the rivets. I measured the depth of one of the remaining holes and determined that I could drive the broken rivet in to the bottom of the hole and have enough remaining depth for the new rivet. Sure enough it worked. It was easier than drilling three new holes and if it failed for some reason I could still drill the new holes.
Very clever. I really like that idea, although out of several dozen tap screws removed, I've only had a few heads come off, and never have one patially broken off, so haven't yet had an opportunity to employ such a suggestion.

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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-15-2012, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FASTLIKEJUDY View Post
I broke one of the rivets. I measured the depth of one of the remaining holes and determined that I could drive the broken rivet in to the bottom of the hole and have enough remaining depth for the new rivet. Sure enough it worked. It was easier than drilling three new holes and if it failed for some reason I could still drill the new holes.
My $0.02
Good Luck
Team FASTLIKEJUDY
This worked a treat for me this afternoon. 2 rivets came out fine, third one snapped. I found an old micro screwdriver small enough to go down the hole, whacked the stub of the rivet a few times and sure enough, down it went. Shiny new badge now installed.

Thanks FLJ for this tip
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