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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 11-16-2012, 08:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Mr Pete, you surprise me!
The AAU's in all manner or british bikes, with their old springs and dry or gummed pivots, has always rendered them a hit or hope way of putting the spark at the right time, except when fully advanced.
You have a very negative view of EI, what experience of them do you have?
I have a 30 year one.
When my magneto failed, there was nothing I could do.
Similarly if a coil failed one would have a similar impasse (naive to think a car coil from a scrapyard would help these days)
EI is not so bad, keep the electricals up to speed and its fine
Dave
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:03 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caulky View Post
Tom,
There are many different manufacturers of EI`s.
Pro`s: easy set-up and timing, no mechanical bits to wear out.
Once set shouldn`t need any further adjustments.

Con`s: Needs a good battery voltage compared to points.

You need to select one for your engine.
Boyer seem to have a bewildering range.
Personally, I use a Sparx EI and Rectifier/regulator.
Hi there,I hope you can help me with a problem I am having with converting a 1979 Bonnie from Lucas electronic ignition to Sparx,I need to know what the wire colour codes are to connect Lucas to Sparx,I,ve looked everywhere on the internet and on this forum but can,t find anyone who has done it but I,m sure someone on here has so heres hoping cheers Hooter.
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:33 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hooter View Post
Hi there,I hope you can help me with a problem I am having with converting a 1979 Bonnie from Lucas electronic ignition to Sparx,I need to know what the wire colour codes are to connect Lucas to Sparx,I,ve looked everywhere on the internet and on this forum but can,t find anyone who has done it but I,m sure someone on here has so heres hoping cheers Hooter.
The Sparx kit contains everything you need.
In your case you will need the SPX021 (no coils).
Amp with a wired plug.
Socket with mini harness.
Rotor and stator.
Some connectors and sleeving.
Two rotor screws with different threads.

Remove the fuse.
Yours is negative earth, so after removing the old amp and transducer you will be left with just your coils.
After mounting the Sparx amplifier unit [igniter] with its plug...
Fit the rotor loosely with the appropriate screw, [may need shortening a bit].
Fit the stator with pillar screws in the centre of the slots.
Connect the socket and wiring.
Route the black/white and black/yellow wires to the stator, cover them with the sleeving.
*see the instructions.
Connect the WHITE wire to a good earth/battery negative.
The coil negative originally has a White/Black from the old AB11 amplifier...replace it with the new BLACK wire.
The white/pink coil interconnection can be left as is.
The positive conection of the other coil had two white/yellow wires.
One to the old amplifier, replace it with the RED wire.
Leave the other one to the ignition/lighting switches.
Follow the instructions for timing.
http://www.tri-corengland.com/acatal...c_Ignition.pdf

I think that covers it, but you may like to fit an engine kill switch.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:34 AM   #14 (permalink)
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thanks Caulky for your extensive reply,but I hadn,t even thought of removing the coils didn,t know it was possible,the problem was the guy in the parts shop who really knows his Triumphs told me the wiring colours for 4 of the lucas wires nto the new sparx loom but after soldering them up I was left with 2 blacks on the lucas and one white and yellow of the 2 of that colour and the white on the sparx loom so after an exhaustive search of the internet without success I finally managed to get hold of him today as he doesn,t work weekends and he told me to solder the other white and yellow to the other one so 2 white and yellows together from the lucas loom and join them to the red on the sparx then to join the 2 blacks left on the lucas loom to the white on the sparx one and make that earth after all that was done I soldered the 2 wires onto the contact stator fitting terminals and tried to start it with static timing only done of course but it would fire but backfire badly and wouldn,t run for long enough to even turn the choke off so I drained all the old fuel and carby bowls and put fresh fuel in still no good then decided to swap the two stator terminals around as the parts guy told me they would be trial and error and to my utter joy and amazement it fired into life and ran like a clock a very enjoyable feeling I can tell you after 4 hrs of kicking it over so I am a very happy camper now and it starts first kick now thanks again for your help hope I didn,t bore you,Cheers Hooter.
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