Triumphrat

CaptRussell

Hi guys, first post here.
I have a question for you gurus I'd like an opinion on. I have a 66 TR6 which has had a 1971 or 72 front put on it. It comes with the infamous or famous, (depending on who you talk to) conical front hub. Some say these were the best drum brakes ever made, just needing care to keep set up, others are quick to point out they didn't get called the comical hub just because riders like rhyme.
Your thoughts here please gentlemen, am I better to go back to the older technology, go forward to a disk, or be grateful with the very attractive and outstanding (please, please) stopping capacity I have already.

Will try to figure out how to post a pic so you can tell me what else I might have.


[ This message was edited by: CaptRussell on 2005-12-31 22:36 ]

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TRI-AL

U wanted an "opinion", here's mine: If the bike is essentially "stock", I'd go back to the "original" equipment. If it's a real "morphodite", it's your call. If the brake works OK by you, why fuss? As a last option, I'd go to the disc conversion as that was probably the best of the lot, BUT THAT would be a "project" with fluid hoses and all! Keep it simple. Put oil in it & ride it.
That's MY story & I'm stickin' to it! :razz:

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CaptRussell

For your interest I have placed a photo in the 'Photo Album Submission Area' it's CaptRussell's TR6P
I'm asking the questions as I am yet to ride it. Bought it a week or so ago and am working towards firing her up. has a 750 morgo so isn't really a stock machine anymore. I think the later forks are quite sexy but can't say I'll be keeping the handlebars, - or the silencers for that matter.

here is a shortcut, hope it works!
http://www.triumphrat.net/albums/album843/cei.sized.jpg

[ This message was edited by: CaptRussell on 2006-01-01 02:00 ]

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bonnietiler

Either way you're ahead, the brake no matter how badly set up will be superior to the single leader as fitted to a 66, the forks are light years better than the those fitted to the 66.
The trick with the conical hub is to get the shoes so that they make contact over the entire area of the inner drum. Most new/replacement shoes do NOT have the leading edge chamfered as was the case when supplied from Meriden. In this instance, only the very front part of the shoe makes contact with the drum. The other problem is that of badly scored drums due to the lack of any kind of cover to the drum air scoop, so anything this side of a water vole could get in there!
I feel it was asking alot of the brake to stop a 520lb Trident but, it always felt fantastic on a 340lb BSA B50, so a 410lb TR6 should be fine...Oh yes get a proper wide nylon lined cable too!
Cheers
BonnieT

GeoffE

Hi & welcome,

A couple of suggestions and personal thoughts.

I think the original drum set-up would be totally inadequate for your 750cc conversion, and the unmodified Conical drum not much better. You can get longer brake lever arms which increase the performance of the Conical drum and I recommend you think about this as a minimum upgrade.

An alternative to stepping up to a disc set-up would be to go for a Grimeca double-sided 4-leading shoe hub. I have this on a BSA R3 (replacing the conical) and I find it the equal to any disc set-up.

Hope this helps?
Geoff
:wink:

Ballacraine

I think Geoff summed that up well.

I would add though it will depend how you intend to ride it.

If you are just pootling it about it MIGHT be adequate as is.

If it were me I would go for the disc conversion.

Prefrably the Hyde dual disc conversion :wink:

Having owned a T500 Suzuki I always prefer to have too much brake rather than too little. :-D

Nige.

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oilyboot

The 71/2 conical front brake is only as good as it's keeper, imo.

Before you condemn it as inadequate, try these setup tips: (thanks to Rich B)

"1. Use sand paper adhered to the drum with rubber cement, rotate the wheel and bed the shoes to the drum. Clean the mess up after your done.
2. Install the wheel, leave the fork caps loose along with the torque reaction bolt. Apply the brakes firmly. Either have a helper hold the brakes on or use a bungie to lock down the front brake. Tighten the fork caps in a criss cross pattern until they are tight, then tighten the torque reaction bolt. Release the brakes.
3. With the brake cable completel.y slack, remove the dust plug in the drum, adjust the front micram adjuster until the brake locks, back off until it is just free to turn. Repeat for the rear micram.
4. Adjust the cable at the bars.
5. When adjustment is needed, always adjust the micram adjusters first. Cable last. Always adjust the micrams with the cable completely slack."

Add a top quality (Barnett) cable, and a set of sealed wheel bearings. You'll be amazed by how well the old 'comical' works.

DAGAD

:gpst: Thanks Oilly, I never really knew how to do those for the best results. I have printed it off and put in w / shop manual. Roy

CaptRussell

Thank you guys, looks like I have the goods on the comical and she'll be a keeper. I had heard they were a little bit more work in maintaining them and some swore they had the goods. Looks like it's extending the brake lever arms and oilys correct set up pocedure. Thank you all so much. Cosmetic brakes wasn't sitting too well with me. It's a nice looking front end, so if I can get it to work as well it will be such a bonus!!

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GeoffE

I thought this link may be of interest?: Extended Brake Arm Assemblies

The set-up instructions, posted above, look excellent and I have printed them for future reference too......

Ciao,
Geoff
:wink: