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| Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes. |
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08-30-2012, 03:26 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Member
Grand Prix 250 Main Motorcycle: 1973 Triumph TR7RV
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Bethany, Connecticut United States
Posts: 44 Other Motorcycle: 1969 Triumph TR6R
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Trouble joining cases
I've hit a new wall in my TR7 engine rebuild.
I tried to put my case halves together today. I started by introducing the crank to the drive side case (per Hughie Hancox's DVD), then attempted to mate the drive side case and crank with the timing side. Unfortunately the crank shaft would not fully insert into the timing side main bearing, and the gasket sealer dried too much (I think...). There was a little more than half an inch to go before it was fully home. Now, I can't get it all back apart because the shaft seems stuck in the timing side bearing. Before I figure out why exactly it's not going together, I need to get this thing apart. I gave each end of the crank shaft some firm whacks with a plastic mallet with no success.
I'm using ThreeBond 1104. Anyone know how long my window of opportunity is to get the cases joined up? The tube says dry for approx one minute before joining. That's a pretty small window...
Thanks for helping out.
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08-30-2012, 04:32 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Member
Grand Prix 250 Main Motorcycle: 1973 Triumph TR7RV
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Bethany, Connecticut United States
Posts: 44 Other Motorcycle: 1969 Triumph TR6R
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Never mind! I got it apart. What a pain in the butt.
I warmed it up a bit and hit with more resolve from the timing side. Eventually it came apart. My worry was that the bearing would come out with the shaft, since I obviously have too much interference between the journal and timing side MB. Luckily the bearing is still seated ok.
Thanks.
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08-30-2012, 05:24 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Moderator
Moto Grand Prix Main Motorcycle: Rickman T120
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Victoria Australia
Posts: 2,910 Other Motorcycle: T160,TR6
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I'd recommend using the 3-piece roller bearing on the timing side.It's a stronger bearing,and it makes assembly very easy.
You can also easily check end-float before the crank pinion is tightened.
I use Loctite 515 sealant.It will not set until the cases are closed.
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08-30-2012, 05:42 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Member
Grand Prix 250 Main Motorcycle: 1973 Triumph TR7RV
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Bethany, Connecticut United States
Posts: 44 Other Motorcycle: 1969 Triumph TR6R
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Thanks, Mr Pete.
Can you send me a link or two to the bearing?
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08-31-2012, 06:35 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Moderator
Moto Grand Prix Main Motorcycle: Rickman T120
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Victoria Australia
Posts: 2,910 Other Motorcycle: T160,TR6
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The Triumph part number for the bearing is 60-7362.
RHP bearing number NUP 306 ETCN.
CN only refers to "normal" internal clearance.
You might find this interesting too; http://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vi...f-t140v-3.html
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09-01-2012, 01:20 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Member
Grand Prix 250 Main Motorcycle: 1973 Triumph TR7RV
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Bethany, Connecticut United States
Posts: 44 Other Motorcycle: 1969 Triumph TR6R
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Got it together yesterday with the standard ball bearing. My method: I polished the crank shaft journal more thoroughly, knocking down a little booger (almost undetectable to the eye and finger) with some fine emery. I staged all my hardware. I lightly heated the timing side case and bearing until the bearing had obviously expanded. I spread the Three Bond as neatly and expeditiously as possible, moved quickly, and voila. Everything is together and turning exactly as it should.
Yes, that thread is very interesting.
I am lucky because this low-mileage motor had never been apart before I dug into it, so I got to see exactly what it looked like from the factory. I have been taking my time, taking copious pictures and notes, and sparing no expense on parts. Here and there I have found deviations from the parts book and workshop manual, but I trust the way it was together before I trust the diagram.
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11-22-2012, 07:34 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperSport Main Motorcycle: 1999 T'Bird Sport
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Rangiora, New Zealand
Posts: 1,317 Extra Motorcycle: 1977 T140
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Crankcase Assembly
Quote:
Originally Posted by Miller261
Got it together yesterday with the standard ball bearing. My method: I polished the crank shaft journal more thoroughly, knocking down a little booger (almost undetectable to the eye and finger) with some fine emery. I staged all my hardware. I lightly heated the timing side case and bearing until the bearing had obviously expanded. I spread the Three Bond as neatly and expeditiously as possible, moved quickly, and voila. Everything is together and turning exactly as it should.
Yes, that thread is very interesting.
I am lucky because this low-mileage motor had never been apart before I dug into it, so I got to see exactly what it looked like from the factory. I have been taking my time, taking copious pictures and notes, and sparing no expense on parts. Here and there I have found deviations from the parts book and workshop manual, but I trust the way it was together before I trust the diagram.
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Followed your procedure, using a little heat also, c/shaft entered timing bearing with a little rubber hammer persausion, all good and buttoned up nicely.
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11-22-2012, 11:56 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Member
Grand Prix 250 Main Motorcycle: 1973 Triumph TR7RV
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Bethany, Connecticut United States
Posts: 44 Other Motorcycle: 1969 Triumph TR6R
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Great! Did you use the 3 piece bearing or the standard one?
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11-23-2012, 03:17 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperSport Main Motorcycle: 1999 T'Bird Sport
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Rangiora, New Zealand
Posts: 1,317 Extra Motorcycle: 1977 T140
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Joining up Cases
Quote:
Originally Posted by Miller261
Great! Did you use the 3 piece bearing or the standard one?
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Used a heavy duty (11) ball bearing.
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11-23-2012, 04:03 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Powerbike Main Motorcycle: '74 T140V Chop
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Woodbridge, UK
Posts: 388
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May as well stick my $0.02 here.
Heating up casings/hitting them hard can warp them causing leaks. Worse than that, hitting a casing over a bearing could damage them. To the untrained hand, it'll feel fine. It could fail earlier than you would hope.
Always do everything gently. If you need to hit it, there's a good chance something isn't right.
If you DO need to force it in, use a press.
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