Triumphrat

Morris the Cat · 08-01-2012, 07:41 PM

Here's an interesting shot of an upside -down spin on filter, note the patent plate logo shows as 'Hinckley', ?, maybe a 'Harris' model?

Must get messy trying to change the oil?

As Mr Pete stated, doing a sump plate filter when cold can be a problem for the oil to flow through to the junction block- it will take some time, but it will get there!

When mine was done, used clear lines to make sure the oil was flowing,including the return line to the frame and rockers.

triumpt120rv · 08-01-2012, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MORRISTHECAT

Must get messy trying to change the oil?

If the installer left enough oil hose on inlet/outlet you can take the filter assembly off its u-bolt attachment to the oif tube and turn it upside down to change.

P.S. Watch out for some of that clear reinforced hose for oil. It gets brittle and cracks at the worse of times. I always use the black high temp oil hose. I can tell it's flowing from the spout.

DAVE M · 08-02-2012, 04:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beedub

yep, i want to do that for my T140V.
went to a local mechanic that races Ducati- we found a potential right off.
It's a Napa Gold Chevy Aveo filter, it is about 4" long and the same dia as the raised ring on the sump plate.
I will bolt it thru with seals. it has a lot of surface area, and is supposedly cheap.

what's wrong with buying the "standard" "Charlie's" internal filter? (if an internal is what you're after)

They have been around for 30 years and are tried and tested. They use a B25 filter. They cost around £30-40 here all in (TricorEngland)

http://www.tri-corengland.com/acatal...Kit-RS004.html

Cybersausage · 08-02-2012, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daveforty

Possibly a 'head in the sand' attitude from me but..... dont bugger about with the lubrication system, just change the oil every 1500m (as per the Triumph's recommendation) and use the correct viscosity (20/50) oil from a 'reputable' manufacturer.

It is a technique which got my T140 round the clock, although there have been times where the oil consumption was so high, the bike was getting a continuous oil change.

I'm with you on this one Dave, they work just fine the way nature intended, as long as you do regular oil changes. I really don't understand this obsession with changing everything.

loxx101 · 08-02-2012, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cybersausage

I'm with you on this one Dave, they work just fine the way nature intended, as long as you do regular oil changes. I really don't understand this obsession with changing everything.

Triumph didn't get everything perfectly right, that's the thing! Changing things to make it better can only be a good thing.

This is why people have Boyer units, belt drives, hydraulic clutches, uprated oil pumps, uprated cams etc etc.

Chuck95642 · 08-02-2012, 09:46 AM

Agree that goes for any bike maker or vehicle maker.

Quote:

Originally Posted by loxx101

Triumph didn't get everything perfectly right, that's the thing! Changing things to make it better can only be a good thing.

This is why people have Boyer units, belt drives, hydraulic clutches, uprated oil pumps, uprated cams etc etc.

FASTLIKEJUDY · 08-11-2012, 02:42 PM

Patty and I just returned from a weekend of AHRMA racing at Gingerman Michigan and I thought I would take a few photos of the oil-in-frame filter setup I have been using on my two T140 race bikes. As I mentioned earlier, I replaced the center threaded rod with a longer rod so I could run two filters and increase the filter surface area.

I know it is not good practice to place a filter befoer the pump but I like the compact design of the filter in the down tube.

I checked my log, I have over 40 hours of track time on my T140s with this oil filter setup with 15-50 race oil. Testing proves somewhat it works.

Good luck all

Team FASTLIKEJUDY

loxx101 · 08-11-2012, 04:49 PM

Do you have any idea if using 15w-50 in a non race bike is fine? I can't see why not and I want to use Mobil fully synthetic stuff. Seems like fully synthetic stuff is easy to find in that grade.

beedub · 08-12-2012, 05:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FASTLIKEJUDY

... As I mentioned earlier, I replaced the center threaded rod with a longer rod so I could run two filters and increase the filter surface area. ... Testing proves somewhat it works.

Good luck all

Team FASTLIKEJUDY

..

yes, I used a chevy Aveo filter but would like a steel ended one- what did you use please?
tks bw

shoegaze · 11-27-2012, 01:29 AM

I am a big believer in hard numbers. I'd like to examine flow rate specs on various designs, as it's really the only way to know whether you've improved something slightly, or made a subtly destructive mistake.
I'm am out to achieve neither a marked increase in pressure or any restriction of flow. That said, many of these filtration systems seem to work--yours, for a considerably impressive duration. I can only gather that your meticulous maintenance hurt nothing.
I do believe that many factors are involved here that I'm not capable enough yet to fully grasp, but I can understand their basic function/effect and appreciate their merit.
I'm wondering if starting out on a fresh engine (I'm doing a complete tear down) will afford me the opportunity to run semi-synthetic or perhaps fully synthetic oil and not only increase protection, but stretch out oil changes to three thousand miles.

Cheers, and thanks for that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DAVE M

I have a b25 based inernal filter and it's been fine over 25 years.
As said, change the oil and filter regularly and it's fine.
Presure side is probably safer but i am happy with mine since it prevented loads of tank rust getting through my engine.
As to whether it's better to clean the oil just before entry to the engine, or on the way to the tank, it's a bit academic so long as you start with a cleanish engine and system