Triumphrat

Andy M

Hi, is it possible to remove the seal behind the front sprocket on a T140 without disturbing the gearbox?? Haynes book isn't the best at describing it. I realise the outer seal sits in its own plate but it is almost definitely the inner seal that needs replacing. The bike leaks g/box oil on side stand. Thanks in advance.......

Caulky

There was a question about this recently.
I said no then, and I haven`t changed my mind.
If the clutch and sprocket is removed you are left with this:


Then the old one needs prying out.
And the new one inserted somehow with high gear protruding.
There is a chance that the seal would be damaged or not even seated properly.
Leading to leaks.


If others have successfully done it, I stand corrected.

RetroRod

Hi Caulky,

I have removed this seal without removing the shaft using a specially adapted head on an impact puller (one of my home made Triumph tools).

If I get the chance today, I'll photograph the end piece to give some idea of its shape.

RR

__________________
"A cynic is a blackguard whose faulty vision sees things as they are, and not as they ought to be."
Ambrose Bierce (1842-1914)

http://www.reinstatehank.org/

RetroRod

Andy,

There is every chance the shaft seal is not the culprit! Oil will leak down the splines, despite having an "O" ring to stop this.

This leak becomes evident when the bike is left sitting on the side stand. RR

__________________
"A cynic is a blackguard whose faulty vision sees things as they are, and not as they ought to be."
Ambrose Bierce (1842-1914)

http://www.reinstatehank.org/

RetroRod

As promised: This modified end will squeeze between the shaft and seal, and grips the substance of the seal from the inside.

"Necessity, the mother of all invention"

RR

__________________
"A cynic is a blackguard whose faulty vision sees things as they are, and not as they ought to be."
Ambrose Bierce (1842-1914)

http://www.reinstatehank.org/

dl.allen

I just finished putting mine back together. The seal lip felt fine so I cleaned the slplines really well with carb cleaner on a rag and then siliconed them and put back together. Hasnt leaked a drop.

Purecountry0164

I've had mine apart and resealed and siliconed everything 3 times and it still leaks...

Plewsy

Hi Purecountry0164
are you sure it is the seal leaking, sometimes the blind needle roller bearing can leak
and appear to becoming from the seal have a look at Caulky's pic the bearing is just below the seal.
Also is your seal a tight-ish fit in the case? the casing should be warmed up when installing the seal.
Again in Caulky's pic you can see two punch marks at each side,
this is not a good way to tighten it (No blame on you Caulky mate)
you are better off wrapping the seal with PTFE (thread) tape before you install it.
If it is the blind needle roller leaking you can bodge it by cleaning the recess with acetone (nail varnish remover)
then fill the recess with silicon gasket goo, this is temporary but can work,
again the case should be heated when this bearing is fitted.

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Caulky

In my first pic the layshaft needle roller is sealed.
I think I thoroughly cleaned the area and used Araldite.
The second pic shows the bearing unsealed.
Although its a tight fit, it is half submerged in gear oil and tends to leak.

Purecountry0164

Hi All,

The seal when in tightly as you would expect all 3 times. I also replaced the seal on the shafts that go out to the clutch and back (one shaft rides inside another shaft). The seals on the door got replaced too, as well as the o-ring between the splined and the gear retaining nut (with Plewsy's silcone on the splines trick).

I didn't see any gear oil in the area of the tiny needles bearing that you point out, but maybe it is coming from there and it just wasn't wet when I had it apart. This is defintely gear oil and it only does it when I first park it, and it'll burp out a few ounzes.

I hate to go back inside it the 4th time...

Especially with the flooded crankcase issue that I've been fighting with 2 top end rebuilds.

Plewsy is already advising me on that issue...

Does anyone think getting to that tiny needle bearing is possible without a complete dis-assembly?