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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 03-31-2012, 07:11 AM   #11 (permalink)
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When the gearbox outer cover is fitted you can't see anything different from standard except the pipe to where the oil pressure switch used to go (the switch is relocated to the oil filter housing), and of course the oil filter under the swinging arm. As you say, the oil receives more cooling from airflow around the filter. Additionally, the system holds about half a pint more than standard. The only drawback I'm aware of is that, on later models with neutral indicator light, the switch has to be removed and the hole for it blanked off so that the earlier oil pipes block can be fitted (the later type block has one of the pipes at an odd angle to clear the neutral switch, and this gets in the way of the new oil lines). Personally I don't care at all about losing the neutral light - never had one before so I won't miss it!
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:10 AM   #12 (permalink)
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What sort of price is one of these units? Can you still have an oil pressure gauge/light connected?

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Old 03-31-2012, 12:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You send your timing cover and its about 165 including return postage. Yes you can retain the oil pressure switch.
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Old 03-31-2012, 03:55 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You send your timing cover and its about 165 including return postage. Yes you can retain the oil pressure switch.
Many thanks Dr Fene for the info.
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:05 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Kirby Rowbotham's website is easily found via Google. It has a little info plus his email & phone number etc. He's very helpful. He also offers services not mentioned on his website such as Commando superblend bearing conversions - I got a set of these as well, very reasonably priced.
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:59 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SilentUnicorn View Post
I had not even heard of it till now. It is interesting. Another advantage i think is that the oil gets a little cooling on its way to the engine. That can't hurt. The plumbing looks to be somewhat out of the way visually. Sure would like to see what is done on the inside of the cover.

m

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Old 11-23-2012, 04:28 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Dr Fene View Post
You send your timing cover and its about 165 including return postage. Yes you can retain the oil pressure switch.
I'm curious as to whether these bits can be fitted by customers, instead of parting with the cover and having the fitting service rendered.

Also, I must admit that I'm not terribly fond of those push-in style fittings for a number of reasons. I imagine it would not be difficult to fit more reliable fittings, and for this reason, especially, I'd rather give drilling the case a go personally.

Thanks for posting all of the good information on these systems. All in all, it seems to be a well thought out product.
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Old 11-23-2012, 04:34 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I researched this issue and decided the return line filter is superior as it catches the oil at it's hottest, dirtiest condition straight from the crancase and filters all the bad stuff out before it gets pumped back to the oil tank and dumps sludge in there.

.
I too fitted a return line filter onto my 1970 T100C. It worked the trick, and cost me all of an hour's worth of time and less than $20.00, including the filter. It was a prodigious unit, designed for oil filter relocation on competition vehicles.

The arguement that many make about catching debris on the supply line was duly noted prior to my fitting it up, but like you, I surmised that any offending debris would only miss one cycle, and that if the machine was kept clean, it ought never be an issue. I had never considered the notion that mounting it on the return side might not keep the filter constantly submerged in oil, but I genuinely wonder how important that really is, fundamentally.
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Old 11-23-2012, 05:40 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I can't see how this method could possibly be better than cleaning oil on the return line though?

Surely, as somebody else said (can't find the post to quote for a second) if you put clean oil in the tank, there's no crap in the tank. If you put the filter after the tank but before the crank, you are cleaning clean oil. The crank/engine in general is then making the oil dirty and dumping it back in the tank. Now you have a dirty tank which NEEDS cleaning before it enters the engine. It's basically a solution for a problem that wouldn't exist if the filter was on the return (due to oil being as soon as it's dirty rather than let it sit in a tank).

Engineering wise it's cool. Looks nice, something different etc. Practically it's no different other than having the tank as a "dirty" part of the loop.
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:19 PM   #20 (permalink)
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The OIF setup originally was designed to use most of the frame tube as an oil reservoir, for cooling.

Testing proved an return side oil 'frothing' condition and the filler location was modified to a lower position- at seat height.

So now we have 40% of the oil supply vessel subject to rusting due to atmosphere and age.

How much of this will enter into the sump is anyone's guess.

How much is there is also questionable?

My money, and my bike is on the 'Charlies' filter!

If a cigarette ash falls into the tube- it will be filtered out before getting into the motor.
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