Triumphrat

jtrip · 11-16-2005

Is it possible? Has anyone tried this?

Just read an artical at www.massbia.com/articals/sludgetrap.htm that says the sludge trap can be cleaned without tearing down the motor by removing the top end, removing one of the fly wheel bolts, and timing cover, using solvents (carb cleaner). I have never been into one of these engines but it seems possible to me if the sludge trap is not to restricted.

quagmire · 11-16-2005

I read that before I did mine. Since I was going to take the flywheel and rebbuild the lower end it was easier not to do it that way, but knowing how much sludge was in mine after 30 yrs there was no way it was going to get cleaned any other way.

Bottom line if you need to clean you sludge trap and it has been a while, take the whole thing apart. At least you then know exactly what all the other parts look like. If you go that far replace all the bearings and shells. You will then have a brand new engine you know you can trust.

tridentt150v · 11-16-2005

I reckon you'd spend more $$$$ on solvents and more time cleaning it [and still not being able to inspect how good a job you did, if it is truely clean?] than if you stripped and cleaned as per usual.

And I definitely positively totally would not try to do it during a top end only rebuild, it would be absolute disaster.

Pig9r · 11-16-2005

I have used a light weight oil and vaccum pump to flush one out that had not been in use for very long. Seemed to get alot of crud out of it. Nothing beats taking it apart though. This would be a good time to add an oil filter kit also.

jtrip · 11-16-2005

I will be adding an oil filter kit but not sure what is best. Is the MAP filter any good?

Pig9r · 11-17-2005

That's the kit I have installed on mine. Pretty versatile and filters are easy to find.

papereng · 11-30-2005

There's no short cut. The end of the trap in the crank has a plug that must be removed to access it, which is about 5/8" diameter. You should remove the trap from the crank to clean it, and flush / blow out the small passageways in the crank with the trap removed.

It's harder to get it apart than to clean it and replace it. Word of advice: when you put the plug back in, only tighten it until flush with the end of the crank face. If you put the plug in too far, it will block off the oil passage in the crankshaft, and you will get no oil at all to the big end shells. You can use Blue Locktite (I do), and caulk the threads to keep the plug from undoing itself.

It's not a bad job, in itself. Just takes patience. Change the main bearings and the big-end rod bearings at the same time and you will have a nice reliable bottom end that you can trust.

DAGAD · 11-30-2005

I would also STRONGLY recommend new con rod bolts and nuts before re-assembly. Roy

jtrip · 12-01-2005

At what point should the engine be torn down just to check the sludge trap? I'm new to Triumphs. I bought the bike a couple months ago, it is a 1972, 650 and it has 15K miles on it.

quagmire · 12-02-2005

You have a 33 year old bike. If you want it for another 33 years, break the motor down, replace the bearings, shells, conrod bolts, and such. Then you have a brand new motor you can trust. Plus, if your new to Triumphs like I am, you will have a much better understanding of the inner workings of the powerplant.