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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 03-06-2012, 06:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve69 View Post
before you fit it, i would be interested in the weight difference,
though that is not the whole store as it is the angular momentum that matters, though it would be interesting to seethe numbers...

-Steve
Difference between this kit and standard setup? If so, I'll wiegh everything and post it on here - I'm pretty interested in this too. The crankshaft sprocket/pulley is steel so could be heavier than the std item but the clutch drum & friction plates must be quite a bit lighter & the belt will be miles less than a triplex chain.
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I know this thread has been dormant for a while, but did you get around to fitting the kit? If so are you pleased and any problems encountered?

Cheers
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Old 12-11-2012, 05:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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My wife and I run the Hayward belt drives in our race bikes. I can attest that if run in oil, the belt will spin off the teeth in four years. One of my T140s has has the same dry belt for 9 years. Overall a good quality belt drive and excellent service.
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:13 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tribsa1954 View Post
I know this thread has been dormant for a while, but did you get around to fitting the kit? If so are you pleased and any problems encountered?

Cheers
I did fit the kit and it seems very good so far. But I'm still concerned about the alloy friction plates - I can't believe these will last very long, but I haven;t clocked anything like enough miles to tell yet. It s also a bit hard to compare to standard primary drive because the bike was in a bad state when I rode it home, and I dismantled it straightaway. My only comparison reference is my memory of various T140s I owned nealry 30 years ago. I'd say it is a good clutch - none of these odd problems some people report of plates sticking (but then I've never had that with any Triumph, and I don't know how I'd go about making the clutch stick even if I wanted it to, short of pouring glue in the chaincase!).

I think the engine builds revs quicker - it certainly spins up very freely, and this kit must be 5lb lighter than standard.

I don't add any oil to the case, just let whatever makes its way in there via the main bearing do whatever it wants. I can't be bothered to seal the bearing and make another breather - very many people say their T140s have run for many years and a lot of thousands of miles on synchroflex belts in oil with no problems at all (not racing mind you).
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Old 12-12-2012, 03:16 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info, any problems encountered fitting or is it a simple unbolt and replace with new, everything lines up okay etc

Cheers
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:22 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I'm using a BNR belt drive, dry clutch system and the one thing I have noticed is my engine oil in the tank stays the same colour it came out of the bottle for a long time.
I'm not getting clutch plate dust contaminating the oil which can only be a plus.
The only down side is I have to use a rockerbox breather as the seal is fitted and the 3 small holes are sealed up.

.
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:26 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Old Cafe Racer View Post
I'm using a BNR belt drive, dry clutch system and the one thing I have noticed is my engine oil in the tank stays the same colour it came out of the bottle for a long time.
I'm not getting clutch plate dust contaminating the oil which can only be a plus.
The only down side is I have to use a rockerbox breather as the seal is fitted and the 3 small holes are sealed up.

.
Not getting clutch crap in the engine oil would be a definite bonus. The thing that put me off fitting an oil seal to the main bearing is that I thought it was a lot more complictaed than fitting a rockerbox breather to make the crankcases breathe ok. But if that's all you've got and you fine it works fine, maybe I'll do it.

Has the BNR clutch got a sealed bearing or does it rely on loose rollers and grease?
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:36 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tribsa1954 View Post
Thanks for the info, any problems encountered fitting or is it a simple unbolt and replace with new, everything lines up okay etc

Cheers
The kit I used (bought from LP Williams but almost cerrtainly the same as offered by others for around the same price) was a straight swap. I used the same shims behind the crankshaft pulley as were behind the sprocket, and I bought a complete new centre as the shock absorber rubbers in my old one were shot and also, I couldn't bear the thought of any part not being shiny and new! It was no problem to fit - just like fitting the standard set up only a lot lighter, less messy and if anything easier.

I was very relieved to find that the belt ran nice and true - no tendency to walk one way or the other. I removed the rubber from the chain tensioner and polished the blade to a mirror finish, in case the belt needed any tension, but it didn't.

Like I said, on my experience so far I'd recommend one, but I also think it would be worth forking out the extra for a Tony Hayward kit. The main difference being that his clutches use more friction plates which have a large number of triangular teeth, thereby spreading the load a lot further than on mine.

Last edited by JohnA; 12-12-2012 at 06:38 PM. Reason: typos
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:37 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnA View Post
Not getting clutch crap in the engine oil would be a definite bonus. The thing that put me off fitting an oil seal to the main bearing is that I thought it was a lot more complictaed than fitting a rockerbox breather to make the crankcases breathe ok. But if that's all you've got and you fine it works fine, maybe I'll do it.

Has the BNR clutch got a sealed bearing or does it rely on loose rollers and grease?
All I have is a rockerbox breather, it puts out around 2 drops of oil in 100 miles which I simply catch with a small bottle as I use an O ring chain, otherwise I'd simply use it as a chain oiler.
The BNR clutch has captive rollers with a grease cofferdam built around it and is to all intents and purposes a sealed bearing.

davy
.
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:45 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOMT140 View Post
About 150 cheaper than Tony Hayward's kit
And 21 dearer than Grin Triumph`s !
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Originally Posted by JohnA View Post
aaargh!
Some would do business with Tony anyways.
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