Triumphrat

HankQ · 10-22-2005

In the course of my rebuild I've decided to clean the sludge trap in the crank. I'm glad I did as it was pretty full of sludge. I had no problem getting the headed screw off but removing the tube was adifferent story. The manual says to use a piece of wire. Can anyone be more specific? I havn't gone this far into the engine before. Hank

quagmire · 10-22-2005

When I did mine the trap was completely full. I took a drill bit slightly smaller than the sludge trap and slowly drilled it into the sludge using a wrench to turn the drill bit. You can also use an old hacksaw blade to clean the slugde. then rinse with solvent. by the way on old shotgun cleaning rod and brush is great for this.

After I cleaned it out I used a rod with a hook on it to pull out the trap. Make sure you undo the bolt in the flywheel that centers the trap, then hook the trap in the hole that the flywheel bolt went thru and pull. You will destroy the trap when you pull it out, but if your going this far put a new one in anyway. I suppose you can also use a tap to bite into the trap and then pull it out after heating the flywheel up.

[ This message was edited by: quagmire on 2005-10-22 15:19 ]

Cuppa500 · 10-23-2005

Just out of interest someone today was telling me about a guy in Queensland (that's Australia for anyone geographically challenged) who's making new one piece cranks for unit,pre-unit & 750's. Interestingly the cranks do not have a sludge trap, designed I guess for use with additional oil filtration. I don't know any more detail, so if anyone knows any more about the company/products please share.
regards
Cuppa

tridentt150v · 10-23-2005

Easiest way of getting the sludge trap out:

1. Go and buy a big bolt 7/8"??? from memory by 6" long.

2. Grind a bit of a taper on the thread end.

3. Cut flutes into it with an angle grinder.

You now have a big thread tap for under $5.00.

This bolt should be bigger than the ID of the sludge trap, but the taper on the bolt should easily fit inside the ID.

Use the homemade tap to spin the sludge trap, the thread will grip the sludge trap wall and you should be able to spin the trap out [turn and exert upward pressure].

You will get some thread marks on the inside of the trap, but almost negligible. The trap is not damaged.
If the trap is tight/ceased, use the oven and warm the crank up, this softens the sludge and should un-cease the trap.

DAGAD · 10-24-2005

Hi Hank, good advice from Trident but the tap at 7/8" will be too big. You need either a 7/16" of 3/8" can't remember which for the 'C' range but it's smaller than the 'B' (650/750) which I know to be 1/2".
Don't forget to remove the flywheel bolt! Roy

GrandPaulZ · 10-26-2005

Doesn't mater what detailed method you use to remove the old trap, even whacking it with a thin chisel and trashing it geting it out.

Most importantly is to USE A NEW ONE when you put the engine back together, and peen the blanking screw after tightening.

quagmire · 10-26-2005

GrandPaulZ wrote:

Quote:

Most importantly is to USE A NEW ONE when you put the engine back together, and peen the blanking screw after tightening.

When I rebuilt me engine, the mechanic who helped me remove the sludge trap used an unpact gun to tighten up the blanking screw and I asked him if he would ping the screw edge. He said in his 30 +years of working on these he has never had one come loose. Well the flywheel is back into my engine and the whole thing is on the bike so I guess that's how its going to stay

Anybody else do it this way, or am I looking for trouble?

10-26-2005

Drill the setpunch dimple with a 1/8" bit (very shallow). Drill a 3/4" hole in the plug, insert an easyout and crank away. Remove the the locking bolt on the fly wheel. Spray everything with wd40 and let it sit overnight. Insert a 5/8" MASONARY bit. Bang it in til you can see the edge of the trap in the locking bolt hole. Put a pair of vice grips on the bit shaft, rotate the trap and remove it. Use a couple of cans of brakleen in every hole in the crank and then blow it out with compressed air. I've lost count of the traps I've changed out, and it works every time. MAP sells a neat hex plug for the trap.