Triumphrat

1963wak

i dont blame you for wanting to get rid of the end float,are you saying the bearings are moving freely in the cases ?just a thought why not shim the back of the outer race ? shims on the crank shafts have been known to make an exit, being a bsa man i know this !!

Old Cafe Racer

I won't know if it's the outer races moving or simply the crank walking in the inner races till I split the cases later today or tomorrow, but it's one or the other.
I am considering shimming behind the outers if they are moving so long as it doesn't mean less depth engagement in their housings.
If they are tight and not moving I'll leave well alone and shim the crank using the highest value thickness shims I can as the timing side outer race is bloody hard to remove.
I think the bearings will be tight in the cases and the crank loose in the inners and if that's the case I'll shim up and loctite the crank to the inners as well.

Mr.Pete

If you have the clamping washer fitted between the crank pinion and bearing,the crank shouldn't move in the timing side inner race.It would only move if the nut came loose.

1963wak

? if the bearings are not loose in the cases the the ball must be f###ed or the nut loose.This is a double roller set up

Old Cafe Racer

Close Mr.Pete but doesn't take into account the fact that if there are two ways to fit a component somebody will fit it arse about
As I don't have a manual for a two bearing engine, only for a bush and bearing engine, I simply refitted everything as it came apart.
Now the clamping washer has a bevel on one side and that had been fitted towards the bearing and the flat side towards the pinion so that's how I re-fitted it which was allowing the crank to walk in the bearing as the bevel allowed the nut to clamp the pinion but not the bearing to the crank so then all that limited the end thrust was the distance between the crank shoulders and the bearing inner races which is 31 thou or 0.8mm
So I've ordered 0.7mm worth of shims for the drive side of the crank which will set things to spec.
The crank slides easily in the inner races so a lick of loctite there will do no harm on reassembly as well.
With the timing side clamped the rods are nicely central in the bores
as well so no drama there.
Thanks to everyone who chipped in with advice on this one.

DerryUK

OCR you can get all the manuals you want here ... http://www.classicbike.biz/Index.htm

__________________
DerryUK

'69 T100S being rebuilt - very s-l-o-w-l-y
VFR800 VTEC

Old Cafe Racer

Many thanks for that link Derry, the pdf manual I have is incomplete and the new one on that site fills the gaps for me.
I have a hard copy parts manual but it is for bush engines only so good to get the later one of those as well.
.

Old Cafe Racer

Whilst I have the cases apart it gave me the chance to invesitgate another puzzling issue with this engine, it would slightly wet sump and pump oil out of the exhaust rockerbox Bunn Breather outlet pipe but only when run hard at high revs.
It would pump out 200cc of oil into the catch bottle in 2 miles.

History:- Removed the new Morgo plunger oil pump and replaced the rebuilt original... no difference.
Changed oil pressure relief spring for a new one.. no difference, oil pressures normal and in spec.
Checked the crankshaft oil seal... all good.
Checked oil flow rate to rockerboxes, all good.
Checked pickup pipe for holding vacuum..all good.

So then whilst I have it apart I took a close look at the oil scavenge pickup pipe inside the crankcase and I have attached pictures of what I found, the end of the pipe was swaged down from 6mm dia to only a 3mm dia hole which is even smaller than the ports in the pump it'self.
It looks like it was cut with a pipe cutter and then not reamed out afterwards.
Anyway I cleaned it up with a tapered reamer to full size and suspect this could well be the cause of the problem as there is no way the suction side of a pump should have a smaller diameter than the discharge side.

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