Triumphrat

Doc_Hollywood · 08-25-2005

IIRC you can use one of the longer cover screws in that advance mechanism to pop it loose. Remove the screw that holds the advance mech. in place and try the below recollection....

Gently try to thread that in with your fingers.....obviously if it doesn't take then I am thinking of something else.

Doc

[ This message was edited by: Doc_Hollywood on 2005-08-25 09:59 ]

tridentt150v · 08-25-2005

Gudgeon/wrist pins were always supposed to slip in the conrod and be a light press fit in the piston. This was because the piston was going to run a tad hotter than the conrod so would expand that bit more and during expansion 'release' the pin.

In the real world, the pin can be a firm slide fit in both the piston and the conrod. It seems to make little difference, and for cold starting and stop start riding could even be beneficial.

HOWEVER, I would never use a pin/piston/conrod combination that was a loose fit. You should not be able to easily move the pin, it should be a firm fit that requires some effort [but not necessarily any heat]. Anything less than this is a paperweight or trophy material.

quagmire · 08-25-2005

HY Mttyg, I have a video of Hughie Hancox tapping off his auto advance mechanism with the bolt that holds it on the taper. He undoes the bolt, pulls it out a little and gives it a little tap from above to knoch the mechanism off the taper. The points and the autoadvance mechanism comes off together. I did this with my 650 and it worked great.

mattyg · 08-26-2005

Hey,

Trident 150--Thanks for a little confirmation. The right pin would fall out if you put the piston on its side and has the slips out. The left side I have to use a drift and it came out with some effort, not too much though. Today at the shop I'll see what they think and get an over bore done.

Quag--I'll try removing the ignition that way. I found a bolt that fit into the inner threads as Doc suggested but it was not long enough and I was not sure really what I was trying to accomplish. If the bolt was long enough I thought it would pop off but i ran out of bolt. I'll try banging it from the top.

I thought you powdercaot job was really good lookin. Thanks

Matt

tridentt150v · 08-29-2005

If you can buy a bolt [of the correct thread size] that is 6" long, or can weld another bolt onto the bolt head, then use a weight with a hole in it and another nut on the other end, you can make up a home made slide hammer. I used two bolts and welded the heads back to back, I then use one thread for screwing into the breaker assembly, and - after attaching a slide weight - used the other thread to lock a nut on the end.

Works easy. The other bolt can be any thread/size, as long as you have a nut that fits the thread its type is unimportant.

TRI-AL · 09-01-2005

If U don't want to do the "hammer hit", I took a piece of @1/4 in. flat stock, placed it across the points body, drilled a hole so a bolt could go through to the cam body. (same thread & thickness as cam body bolt, only longer - from hardware store, standard threads) put a bolt above the flat stock & start "screwing" useing one body against the other, it should "pull out" quite niceley with a little "SNAP". :wink:

mattyg · 09-01-2005

Guys,

I gave a little tap and it came loose...a fairly barbaric, yet effective method. Since I plan on doing some work on these things more often I will look into you suggestions...

It will be a while before I rebuild but to get it back on all I have to do is bolt it back to the cam and it "snaps" back on and secures by the threads, right?

thanks
Matt

TRI-AL · 09-02-2005

Right!