Triumphrat

Trudie · 08-22-2005

Hello all,

A basic question but I have to ask. It would usually take about 3 kicks at the most to start my bike from cold. I recently had all the seals on the top-end replaced and now it takes about 8 to 10 kicks before the bike will start. I've heard that I should check the timing. Also suggested was a valve adjustment. Is this heading in the right direction? Any comments appreciated.

Cheers

DAGAD · 08-22-2005

Hi Trudie, yes important to check the valve clearance and set it correctly. Originally (std) your clearances cold should be 0.002" inlet and 0.004" exhaust measured COLD. Just for good measure, if the gaps are a little larger than this IT'S FINE. better to be slightly bigger than Tight.......ask Flash!
Roy.

[ This message was edited by: DAGAD on 2005-08-22 00:59 ]

okiecityflash · 08-22-2005

Hi Trudie. If you click on the first post to your question (Dagad) and go to the posts, "valve adj" of 8-15+16-05. You will gain the information of alot of experience. Watch 'em close. Especially in SF. Frank

[ This message was edited by: okiecityflash on 2005-08-22 11:32 ]

panda · 08-22-2005

poor starting could be due to poor seal caused by lack of valve clearance as said above, but maybe the carbs aren't sealing well, or have some muck in them. after usual ritual of turning over to free clutch, really should be a one kick start. my 1970 trophy it was. note, switch on petrol before anything else, then final tickle after clutch is free. if fuel level not completly full, makes for difficult starting if motor is at all lean then.

tridentt150v · 08-22-2005

If you had 'all your seals replaced', then they would have had the rocker boxes and/or head off. You will need to have your head torqued down.
Typically I do this after warming up in the workshop, at 100mls, and at 500mls. Thereafter as dictated by the sevice routine.

Yours will need doing now. Its also time to check other top end bolts and nuts [rocker, oil feed etc]. Then you valve clearances will need doing straight after this.

Trudie · 08-23-2005

Thanks to all responded. Its good to read that a re-torque might solve the problem. At 150 miles, I did have the head re-torqued and valves adjusted. Coincidently, this weekend the bike will be due for its 500 mile re-torque along with a valve adjustment. Hope this does the trick. While I'm at it, should the ignition timing be checked as well? Also, does the "ritual of turning over to free clutch" mean squeezing the clutch, lightly kick the starter and having it ratchet back to position before actually trying to kick start the bike?

okiecityflash · 08-23-2005

Freeing the clutch, a sorry Trump tradition. Why Triumph never changed something about that I'll never know. Might not of gone under if they had.On mine you squeeze the clutch and kick, kick, kick and when it breaks free it jars you. I have found it easier to start the bike and let it idle for 2-3 minutes. It then breaks free . If you are in LA you really got watch 'em close.

DAGAD · 08-23-2005

Aahhhhh, the joys of a proper clutch! You guys really DON'T know what you are missing.................... 1 finger operation, free instantly, no slip, no drag and silent gear engagement. Sorry I'm gloating............did I also mention I then push the button on the starter and away she goes. :hihi:
Let us know how you get on at the weekend, Trudie. Roy.

tridentt150v · 08-23-2005

Ignition timing can be checked if needed, if its a boyer, it will be OK, if its points then it may need tweaking a bit.
Ignition timing is almost totally independant of tappet adjustment/head torquing.

Trudie · 08-29-2005

Just wanted to let you know that after re-torque, the valve adjustment seemed to solve my starting problems. It appears the valves became really tight and needed to be set more open. Also had the points and timing adjusted properly. Basic maintenance stuff. Now the bike starts on the first kick! - or least until next misadjustment.