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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 06-02-2011, 08:29 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:39 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Hmmm...over an hour now since I posted and no insult from GAMBA yet. Interesting...
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Old 06-02-2011, 09:24 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev_England View Post
Hi all,
After my first 100 miles on my rebuild, the boing-boing of the front end is something I need to deal with. Im putting new sliders on so thought Id go ahead and "rebuild" the forks.

The forks seem in pretty decent shape overall, so I thought Id just replace whatever is reasonably priced. Here's a list I came up with:

Gaitor (H1645) - $22.46 (pair)
Plain Washer (H1656) - $5.76 x 2
Oil Seal (H1500) - $23.26 (Pair - leak proof)
O Ring (H2119) - $1.27 x 2
Plain Washer (H431) - $3.58 x 2
Top Bearing (H441) - $8.91 x 2
Damping Sleeve (H1896) - $10.80 (Aluminum available) x 2
Lower Bearing (H443) - $8.91 x 2

While Im at it:
Progressive Rate Fork Springs - $60 (pair)

Tapered Caged Roller Bearings - $75

Total about $275

It may seem like overkill, but I really only want to take the front end off one more time. I already have new restrictors, by the way.

Does this seem like a good plan and cover any regular defect on a 40+ year old set of forks (theres no pitting on the stanchions).

Cheers.
have you experimented with different weight fork oils.ATF works well but i found a slightly heavier fluid 15w helped damp out the boing .
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Old 06-02-2011, 10:02 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Ive been thinking of experimenting with the oil weights, but Ive had this bike 2 years and restored the whole thing except the forks. I have no idea when they were last reconditioned. Im thinking another $300 so I dont have to take them apart for at least 10 years might be worth it. I think Ive typed myself into it :-)
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Old 06-03-2011, 01:09 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev_England View Post
Hi all,
After my first 100 miles on my rebuild, the boing-boing of the front end is something I need to deal with. Im putting new sliders on so thought Id go ahead and "rebuild" the forks.

The forks seem in pretty decent shape overall, so I thought Id just replace whatever is reasonably priced. Here's a list I came up with:

Gaitor (H1645) - $22.46 (pair)
Plain Washer (H1656) - $5.76 x 2
Oil Seal (H1500) - $23.26 (Pair - leak proof)
O Ring (H2119) - $1.27 x 2
Plain Washer (H431) - $3.58 x 2
Top Bearing (H441) - $8.91 x 2
Damping Sleeve (H1896) - $10.80 (Aluminum available) x 2
Lower Bearing (H443) - $8.91 x 2

While Im at it:
Progressive Rate Fork Springs - $60 (pair)

Tapered Caged Roller Bearings - $75

Total about $275

It may seem like overkill, but I really only want to take the front end off one more time. I already have new restrictors, by the way.

Does this seem like a good plan and cover any regular defect on a 40+ year old set of forks (theres no pitting on the stanchions).

Cheers.
Kev,

$275 is no great amount of money and you'll be happier knowing that it's all been done, once and for good. I'd say do it mate. RR
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Old 06-03-2011, 08:27 AM   #26 (permalink)
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it was a bloody good question, because I wanted all of those answers myself! Thanks all
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Old 06-04-2011, 11:36 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northlandrider View Post
it was a bloody good question, because I wanted all of those answers myself! Thanks all
Yeah, I'd been thinking of doing this for a while, but could never find a definitve "rebuild" kit. So basically came to the conclusion I should just repace anything that isnt overally expensive. The cost quickly adds up though. But, once im done I shouldnt have to take off the front end for a long long time.

With these restore projects, Ive learned the hard way that half measures cause triple work down the line

Last edited by Kev_England; 06-04-2011 at 05:06 PM. Reason: meant "half-way measure" rather than hard way
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Old 06-04-2011, 10:05 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Gee, a simple question sure churned up a bunch of muck at the deep end of the pool for sure.

Not sure that old springs get weak from just sitting. I tend to think that is urban legend. Springs get weak from use, not sitting still. The same theory was common belief for loaded magazines and the data says that a compressed spring at rest does not weaken over time.

That said, corrosion will take its toll so if the springs are pitted, I'd replace them.

Damper type front ends suffer from zero suspension when it comes to potholes or speed bumps hit at high speeds. So, if you are looking to ride hard and maintain control regardless of the road surface, I'd suggest cartridge emulators. I believe shuttle valves, as mentioned previously, are the same thing. It is basically a reed valve that gives when you hit a big bump. The problem with fork controlled by orifices is the the ability to cushion bumps is relative to the velocity of the oil flow thru the orifice. I'm straining my brain here to remember the relationship, but I believe the pressure increases by the square of the velocity. In layman's terms a speed bump at 10 mph makes the forks give nicely, but the same bump at 60 mph is like having a ridgid front end. So if you are upgrading and rebuilding and if emulators are available for vintage Triumphs, I'd consider them. Progressive fork springs are a nice upgrade as well because they also give you the nice cushy ride yet perform well under throttle.
If you are going to spring for new springs, I'd suggest that you go to a suspension vendor and request progressive springs for your weight and riding style. If you are going to plop $200-$300 for a front end rebuild, then it damn well better maximize your investment. If you have to spend an extra $50-$100 for custom springs, don't you think it is worth it?

Just my uninformed 2 cents worth.

regards,

Rob
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Old 06-06-2011, 04:03 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Progressive rate springs ordered.
Manufactured by "Progressive Suspension, USA"

I didnt realize they made the pre-1971 springs. Glad they do though.
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Old 06-15-2011, 05:14 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Just a quick update for anyone thinking of rebuilding their forks.
I recieved the parts listed above and luckily for me they all worked a treat. The only cavaet is installing the new seals in the dust cover--you'll need a quite large deep socket to do it properly. I actully couldnt find one and wound up using a piece of 2" x 2" wood to tap the seal in and seat it properly.
Also, theres no need to take the whole forks off the bike--leave the stancions on the yokes.
It was actually quite an easy job all in all.
Can't wait to take it for a test run!
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