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'72 Bonnie - from finding to buying, to fixing up, to riding...

299K views 2K replies 70 participants last post by  gatornapper 
#1 ·
Found this about a 2 1/2 hour drive from me. I'm leary of an OIF, and the changes made in late '71/'72.......but may be able to pick this up for a good price.

http://harrisonburg.craigslist.org/mcy/1588694257.html

I've sent a long list of questions, but haven't heard back from owner yet.

Any recommendations from the brain trust?

TIA,

gatornapper
 
#1,983 ·
Hey Shrugger, I rode a 64 TR6 new from Bud Ekins shop in LA across the country with my best friend on his TR6 6,000 miles (side trips) and then rode it for the next several years as sole transportation until it had more than 35,000 miles on it and while it wanted a little attention every week, I never had to rebuild the engine or the tranny. I replaced the clutch plates once. Have a little respect for these old girls!
 
#3 · (Edited)
Shrugger - yeah, a complete rebuild on engine for sure..... any other thoughts on it?

On a separate matter, the fork lock key is missing. Any way to find out what key it takes and get one? While it's not a 650, be awfully easy to hot-wire and steal, and I'd sure like to lock the forks when I get it on the road...... Clearly the key is not even the same type as the ignition key (I have original) which will not fit in the fork lock

TIA,

gn
 
#4 · (Edited)
It's just as easy and cheap to replace the lock, maybe an hours work tops (it involves removing the headlamp and then drilling out the retaining grub screw) and no the key is not the same as the ignition.
The bike looks pretty original except for the cissy bar and the handlebars, as you've said it would need a rebuild, the up side it looks like a low seat model.
I'd buy it :)

Webby
 
#5 ·
You say it's not a 650?? It should be. Will also need a set of mufflers. I'd start off very low. Rusted chrome is another money pit if you want the bike to look good. Chrome polish will work wonders, but once it starts to flake off you'd done.

I don't remember which year they went to the brace on the bottom of the tank to prevent it from cracking. Look under the front portion of the tank for a cross brace. The parts book for '72 does not show that brace so look the tank over well for any signs of leakage, especially under the chrome strip that runs down the center of the tank.
Rob
 
#2,226 ·
....I don't remember which year they went to the brace on the bottom of the tank to prevent it from cracking. Look under the front portion of the tank for a cross brace. The parts book for '72 does not show that brace so look the tank over well for any signs of leakage, especially under the chrome strip that runs down the center of the tank.
Rob
Mine is a '72 and has the under-tank cross brace.
 
#7 ·
My 71 does not have the tank brace. I wish it did though. It doesn't look like there is anyway to retro fit anything that would brace the tank and look good.

Are the tanks without braces always going to fail at some point, or is it just a sometimes, depending on the particular tank, type of issue?
 
#8 ·
It may be worth what he's asking. I'd offer maybe $1500 and see
what he thinks.
If I had the spare, I'd buy it. Give it a quick and dirty rebuild. Throw
on some Ace bars and otherwise run it as is.(Minus the sissy bar of course)
 
#11 ·
What shrugger said... 1500 -1800$ would be a nice price. Consider spending another 1000$ on her and you've got yourself a nice ride. A 5 speed also. One of the rarer ones for that year.

I have a 72, also with a tie strap (tank brace). High seat I recon, looks like mine.
 
#18 ·
Land vehicle Vehicle Motorcycle Motor vehicle Automotive tire


I have a DE 20XXX 1971 TR6R and am 6 feet tall and can just get both feet planted on the ground. The seat height is 33 inches, so is definitly one of the high ones. The tank has the brace.

I don't think you can go wrong on that bike at that price, but if your short it may be too big for you. Take it for a ride and find out.

Bob
 
#19 ·
UK Bike

Thanks for all the feedback everyone. I used to be 5'6", but 65 years of wear & tear, 3 back surgeries and more put me down to 5'4" + a hair - (not on my head where there ain't much :).

My T110C being on road/off road is very high for me, and I'm on my tip toes at a stoplight, but because it is so light, it is no problem for me. Of course, the Bonnie is heavier, but still a lot lighter than my Harley.

This bike was a UK bike by the model # and being a 5-speed. I see that as a plus. He has the original pipes which I'd clean up and put on, and yeah, rip that sissy bar off as soon as I got it home.

He says that his dad got it from original owner and gave it to him, that it was running fine when he put it in his heated basement where it has been for 15 years. He says he is not the mechanical type, so hasn't even tried to start it. I wouldn't try without changing all fluids, flushing frame (gotta be OIF, right?), etc.

Since it hasn't run for 15 years, I'm thinking $1,500 would be my highest offer.

Big question for me is it is almost 3 hours away, so that's a whole day trip to just look at it. Of course, I'd take my '06 Duramax with my bike trailer behind it - but there's $60 of diesel just to take a look. Could be well worth it, of course.

I also may see if he wants to take a few of my guns in trade.

gatornapper
 
#31 · (Edited)
Lookin' good

Ok, friends, I'm getting warm on this '72 Bonnie after 20 min. on the phone with the owner.

His dad that gave him the Bonnie is still riding at 79 yrs., Honda Gold Wing, Kaw Vulcan cruiser. The dad is detail freak, mechanic, picky/picky/picky on frequent oil changes, etc. He got bike when it was 7 mos. old, almost all miles were his dad, maintained meticulously. Practically, it's almost a one owner. Body immaculate 'cept for a little bit of rust on wheels, one small ding in tank. Has original mufflers and Owner's Handbook. Owner has never ridden it.

Gas tank was drained upon storage 15 years ago, been in heated basement ever since.

When his dad gave it to him, he said, "You gotta turn the engine over every month", and he said he has done this for 15 years. Dad has first right of refusal so he won't sell it too cheap. I have 2nd right. When he told his dad he was selling it, his dad came over and they changed the oil.....went to local bike shop and got oil specially for antiques.....he's gonna get back to me on exactly what it is.

Momma bear is giving approval! :HappyRoll:beerchug:blowkiss So I'm probably gonna look at it this weekend, maybe throw it in my trailer and bring it home.

QUESTION: With this excellent maintenance history, is the sludge trap still a big issue? Will I still need to do a complete tear-down of the engine?

T.I.A. to all who help with their thoughts,

gatornapper
 
#34 · (Edited)
Momma bear is giving approval! :HappyRoll:beerchug:blowkiss So I'm probably gonna look at it this weekend, maybe throw it in my trailer and bring it home.

QUESTION: With this excellent maintenance history, is the sludge trap still a big issue? Will I still need to do a complete tear-down of the engine?

T.I.A. to all who help with their thoughts,

gatornapper
Well, without reading the entire thread, it's got a few miles on the clock but most have. I say if the price is right, buy it and worry about the detail later!!!

If it's been as well maintained as is claimed and has been sitting for that long, the ST shouldn't be a major issue. You should start it and listen to the engine, then take it for a ride and 'feel' it before rushing off to do a full tear down rebuild. (Tip: I'd be looking at the tyres/brakes before riding!!!)

It might only need a top end rebuild, bore job, pistons, rings gaskets, valve check etc.

If there's no nasty noises and it doesn't blow masses of smoke, I say buy it and ride it!! :D
 
#37 ·
Thanks, Porge. How's 'global warming' treating you down way down there?

gn
 
#35 ·
Scott - Hey, bro, I'll do more than wave! Be glad to stop by your place and let you look at it on the way back if you'd like. :)

Shoot me your address and phone # at richard@hanes.org and I'll call you when I'm 1/2 hour out and I'll find you with my GPS.

gatornapper
 
#51 ·
I believe the high seat models rear brake rod was positioned with the actuating lever pointed at the ground. Low seat models were rotated 180* pointing at the sky. In the picture yours would appear to be a low seat model.

This is my '72 TR6R which is definitely a low seat. Additionally it is a Home or European model as indicated by the Bread Bin tank and extended front fender.


HTH,

TD
 
#53 ·
I believe the high seat models rear brake rod was positioned with the actuating lever pointed at the ground. Low seat models were rotated 180* pointing at the sky. In the picture yours would appear to be a low seat model.

This is my '72 TR6R which is definitely a low seat. Additionally it is a Home or European model as indicated by the Bread Bin tank and extended front fender.


HTH,

TD
TD - Well, you and Scott have different thoughts on the seat height .....I'll let you know tomorrow what it actually is.....

gn
 
#54 · (Edited)
A picture is worth a thousand words.

High seat model.
Note where the frame is welded practically right on top of the oil filler hole, also note the distance between the air box and the seat, also note that the seat lower edge is on the same height level as the tank lower edge, also note the seat looks more "horizontal" than a low seat model, which seemed to be lower at the front than the back.





Low seat model.
Note where the rear frame is welded in relation to the oil filler hole, some inch and a half lower than in the pic above, note the seat seems to sit nearly right on top of the air box, the seat is at a visibly lower level than the tank and seems to slope "downhill" towards the tank




Tiger, your TR6R in that photo looks like a high seat model, a couple of reasons, it has a fair gap between air boxes and the seat, and doesn't have the characteristic slope on the seat. Wether this is because of the bread bin tank or what, I don't know, would be interested in where your rear frame is welded in relation to the oil filler.
 
#57 · (Edited)
My brake lever on my back hub points to the ground.
But as for the originality of it, it is anyones guess, my bike is a bitsa, I today noticed it has a not original front rim, it has the word Japan stamped on it. :confused: The bike is predominantly a '71 rebuilt around a serial PG (Nov '71 build, '72 model designation) frame as best as I can tell.


EDIT: - the yellow bike isn't mine, it is a mate of someone who posted the pic originally, mine is the ratty red beast. (red ones go faster!)
 
#59 · (Edited)
Good as done GPZ, give me a couple of minutes to cut and paste it over.


Dale, this is a random pic pulled by googling, but it does look like a high seat model with the brake lever on the back hub pointing upwards.



As best as I can tell it is a '72, the bottom half of the front forks doesn't have the distinctive ridge along its length of the '71's.
 
#61 ·
It's definately a 72 model year, if you're as sad as me you will notice the following differences:
1) No ridge on the front fork lowers.
2) There is an extra reinforcing wire on the front fender (mudguard)
3) There is (hard to see) a tank reinforcing strip fitted

Webby
 
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