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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 12-25-2009, 07:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Tis the season to be wiring

Hi All,

I am planning on rewiring a 64 tr6r, and I have a couple of questions.

I've got a positive ground system with a Boyer ignition,single phase alternator, Typanium module, 12v battery, and 6 volt coils. The existing set up is a very minimalist home made harness that was poorly done. There are two blade type fuses on the negative side of the battery. A 25 amp between the Tympanium and battery negative, and a 20 amp between the light switch and battery negative. there are no fuses on the positive/earth side of the battery.

Does anyone have any advise on where to put a fuse or fuses when I build my new harness? The diagrams in the manual show only one 25 amp fuse on the positive battery lead. Would this be OK with the Boyer/Typanium set up, or do I need to keep the fuse in the Typanium circuit? Also, I understand that the British fuses are rated at a blow rate and the US fuses are rated at a continuous rate. All very con-fuse-ing.

Any advise on this would be much appreciated.

thanks
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Old 12-25-2009, 10:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hi Dawsman, I never have liked the single inline fuse used on the Triumphs. A short any where in the harness can leave you stranded.
Since you're building your own harness any way why not use a proper fuse block and seperate the circiuts?
I'm in the middle of wiring my Trident and that is the route I've chosen.
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Old 12-26-2009, 12:08 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply Shel.

This looks like a nice clean way to do it. I like the idea of seperating the circuits to isolate any possible shorts.

Are you using the 10 amp fuses for your lighting circuits and the 15 amp for ignition?

Anyone know what size fuse would be apropriate for protecting a Tympanium module? The current set-up has a 25 amp on the charging circuit. This seems pretty big, but I don't have any of the technical data for the Tympanium.

Thanks
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Old 12-26-2009, 05:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shel View Post
Hi Dawsman, I never have liked the single inline fuse used on the Triumphs. A short any where in the harness can leave you stranded.
Funny you should say that Shel. Carelessness on my part had me nealy caught out last week-end when the only fuse died for a short on the tacho dial light. Now if only I'd fused the light curcuit!!

Looks nice and neat Shel, sure to start a fad. RR
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Old 12-26-2009, 02:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Dawsman, the fuses in there now are just what I had on hand to check my circuits. I'll have to figure out how much draw I have on each circuit before I settle on final fuse size.

Retro Rod, I hope it does start a fad. Last summer I was about 150 miles away from home when I had a fuse blow. I was fortunate enough to find a hardware store that had a few old glass fuses on hand and I was able to find the short before I ran out of fuses. From then on I use only blade type fuses readily available at any gas station.
When I started thinking about building a harness for the Trident one of the things I knew I wanted was a fuse block to separate the different circuits. When the Trident is up and running the Bonneville will get a new harness with a fuse block installed.

Last edited by Shel; 12-27-2009 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 12-26-2009, 05:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hi Shel,

Having slept on this, and because I'm renewing harnesses in the new year, I think I may follow your lead. Like a spin on filter, fused circuits are sensible and convenient. Very glad I caught this thread. RR
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Old 12-27-2009, 11:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replys on this.

Shel, I will also be following your lead using the blade type fuses and a fuse block. I love the fact that you can pick them up at any gas station.

A couple other questions about wiring. Has anyone ever put an oil pressure switch on an early unit bike? I have a 64 bonneville motor, but my headlight shell is from a later model with the indicator lights.
I would like to work the oil pressure indicator light into my wiring. There is a place on my timing cover for the switch, but the early units did not have them. I'm not sure if the oil pressure switch would fit my timing cover.

Also, this is probably a stupid question, but what is the orange light and the toggle switch on the headlight shell for? These were not on the 64 models, but I am building the bike to ride and not concerned with being 100% original.

Thanks
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Old 12-28-2009, 12:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Shel, this is a great idea. My harness was replaced about three yrs ago, but would like to retrofit what you're doing.

Do you, or anybody have any thoughts on taking a stock type harness and converting it to fuse box and separate circuits? Or a partial modification of what you're doing for an orig harness so as to not get stranded due to one wire shorting?

Thanks,
TxTiger (Ron)
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Old 12-28-2009, 05:52 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dawsman View Post
Thanks for the replys on this.

Shel, I will also be following your lead using the blade type fuses and a fuse block. I love the fact that you can pick them up at any gas station.

A couple other questions about wiring. Has anyone ever put an oil pressure switch on an early unit bike? I have a 64 bonneville motor, but my headlight shell is from a later model with the indicator lights.
I would like to work the oil pressure indicator light into my wiring. There is a place on my timing cover for the switch, but the early units did not have them. I'm not sure if the oil pressure switch would fit my timing cover.

Also, this is probably a stupid question, but what is the orange light and the toggle switch on the headlight shell for? These were not on the 64 models, but I am building the bike to ride and not concerned with being 100% original.

Thanks
Hi Dawsman,
I think you should be able to fit an oil pressure switch to your bike, you would just need to check that the threads in the timing cover are the same. Hopefully someone out there will have real experience of this.
The orange light is normally for the indicators and the toggle switch is for the pilot/headlamp. I have no indicators on my 71 so the orange light just fills a hole, the switch positions would normally be far left: Off, middle: pilot light on, far right: headlamp on.

I hope this helps

Webby
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