Triumphrat

ajslug · 11-18-2009, 07:05 PM

I am having a hell of a time adjusting the front brakes. The rear shoe makes contact to the drum before the front shoe, and I can't find a good sweet spot. Basically, I have it setup with the double lever bracket (bottom of hub) all the way de-slackened, and the adjustment on the brake cable fully streched It won't stop unless there is a bit of rolling resistance (on rear shoe), but I still have too squeeze the lever all the way to the bar (for the front shoe to make a bite). Now, listen here, I have a new cable and new shoes. (The old cable and shoes were no better or worse.) So, what gives? The only thing I can think of is to grind off shoe material off the rear leading edge so it can bite at the same time. The levers are seated on 90 degree square increments, so I can't just move it a "notch" or 2. Am I on to something or missing something here? The new cable is a UK make NOS purchased from Rabers. The shoes are Emgo (not too happy about that), but the original shoes were the original riveted type. No difference!

GrandPaulZ · 11-18-2009, 07:21 PM

Are you sure you installed them with the leading edge facing the proper direction?

Make sure to thoroughly de-burr, de-rust & clean both lever pivot pins, then grease them properly.

Assemble everything snugly, get the tire spining as fast as you can and apply the brakes stiffly (several times), disassemble and check.

Sand down the worn spots on the shoe(s) till you get a good, complete even surface contact on the entire shoe.

At that point, adjust all the slack out of the cable, and you should have as good of brakes as that bike will ever get.

ajslug · 11-18-2009, 08:04 PM

Thanks... I will try these things. Yes, the brakes are installed correctly (as far as I can tell) Is there a wrong way and they will fit? I put them on exactly how I took the old ones off. It could be possible the old ones were on wrong.

GrandPaulZ · 11-19-2009, 01:03 AM

Some of the better brand replacement shoes have a "tapered" finish on one end of the brake material, and a flat cut-off on the other end, these should be installed where the tapered end is oriented so that it sees the brake lining first on forward rotation of the wheel.

johnquinnell · 11-19-2009, 06:50 AM

Here are some tips I copied off some Triumph website somewhere regarding the correct setting up of Triumph/BSA conical brakes. It might help you with setting yours up better?
__________________________________________________ ___________________________
Conical brake adjusting

The 71/2 conical front brake is only as good as it's keeper, imo.

Before you condemn it as inadequate, try these setup tips: (thanks to Rich B)

"1. Use sand paper adhered to the drum with rubber cement, rotate the wheel and bed the shoes to the drum. Clean the mess up after your done.
2. Install the wheel, leave the fork caps loose along with the torque reaction bolt. Apply the brakes firmly. Either have a helper hold the brakes on or use a bungie to lock down the front brake. Tighten the fork caps in a criss cross pattern until they are tight, then tighten the torque reaction bolt. Release the brakes.
3. With the brake cable completel.y slack, remove the dust plug in the drum, adjust the front micram adjuster until the brake locks, back off until it is just free to turn. Repeat for the rear micram.
4. Adjust the cable at the bars.
5. When adjustment is needed, always adjust the micram adjusters first. Cable last. Always adjust the micrams with the cable completely slack."

Add a top quality (Barnett) cable, and a set of sealed wheel bearings. You'll be amazed by how well the old 'comical' works.
__________________________________________________ ___________________________
Cheers
JQ

ajslug · 11-19-2009, 04:10 PM

John, my brakes are different than you are describing (Conical). There is no Torque reaction bolt. There is no adjuster, no dust caps.. Only adjuster is the cable slack and the link bar. Thanks for the time to help

Paul, I tore it all apart last night, and there is NO WAY one can fit the shoes on this design with the leading and trailing edges reversed. The leading edges are narrow, and the wider trailing edges fit snug onto a thrust pad. I did notice the shoes are not the same, but are mirror images, so one on top is different than bottom one ( there is a left/right offset). (I say top or bottom whereas yesterday I said front and rear. The rear lever operates the top shoe cam, and the front lever operates the bottom cam.)Still the top one bites the drum earlier than the bottom shoe. The cable is attached to the bottom shoe. I took all the slack out of the link bar, and the top shoe still bites before the bottom one. In essence, I have to slack the cable all the way where the bottom shoe is almost completely useless since the upper shoe is always going to drag on the drum. I am thinking I will need to sand a lot of material off of the top shoe so both shoes can bite on the drum at the same time. The shoes also have a slanted edge already provided. This would be so much easier if one of the cam levers had notched adustment positions!!!!

Still puzzled (and afraid to go riding since I almost crashed on my last ride due to crappy brake design...or shall I say crappy supported replacement parts?)

GrandPaulZ · 11-19-2009, 04:56 PM

Have you properly adjusted the link BETWEEN the two actuator arms?

jimballard · 11-19-2009, 05:43 PM

If your bike is a 1970 or earlier, there are a couple of threads in the past dealing with adjusting and setting up the brake. It's worth finding one and following it.

It's not a hard job: Jim

ajslug · 11-19-2009, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimballard

If your bike is a 1970 or earlier, there are a couple of threads in the past dealing with adjusting and setting up the brake. It's worth finding one and following it.

It's not a hard job: Jim

Done searches, nothing on adjustments. Just alternate fitments.

ajslug · 11-19-2009, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GrandPaulZ

Have you properly adjusted the link BETWEEN the two actuator arms?

Yes, the link rod that joins the 2 levers. I have it in the shortest position, and it needs to be "shorter".